Mindelo - Out & About

We were invited by our friends Philippe & Imelda to a Sunday afternoon at Chez Loutcha, a short bus ride away for a 'all you can eat' Cape Verdian buffet with live music and dancing.

Apres food, we joined in with the dancing

Another day we all went (14 of us) for swimming and then an evening bbq of locally caught fish etc. At Elvis' beach restaurant at Salamansa, music and dancing again......phew!

Elvis 

Good eats

L-R ; Mae, Sandrine, Marco, Phillipe, Imelda

Tribal dance, once a year something to do with coal

Mindelos famous carnival took place whilst we were here. This was quite spectacular and even some of our friends got in on the act.  We didn't go to the carnival on the first night (lasted 3 days) and luckily  for the charter boat near us.  We saw a flare light up our cabin in a red glow and upon outside investigation we saw the charter boat on fire. The flare had landed on the boats spray hood and was burning its way through ferociously.....We sprang into action. I grabbed a bucket and Alison went to raise the alarm just in case I was unable to extinguish the fire - fire doused with sea water. This was successful and the charter operator was very pleased with us and later that week paid for our breakfast at the marina bar.

Spectacular floats

Mae in Carnival attire

Burnt spray hood 

Mindelo - First Impressions

Our First impressions of Mindelo was total surprise. The marina is smart and well run with a popular floating cafe/bar (yes, they do an English breakfast, albeit a spicy version). Clean toilet facilities, a ship shop chandlery, good key card security and very proficient marinios. Mindelos atmosphere is relaxed and laid back. Not far away, past the commercial port is a lovely white sandy beach. There is several small supermarkets, a fish market and a outside market where we found Merci (flag lady) and purchased 2 courtesy flags and ordered a red British ensign.

Alison found a new friend

Mindelo beach

Merci, Merci !

There were several familiar boats/faces that we were pleased to see again in the marina. One thing we have been looking to buy, for quite a while, is a new anchor. The ship shop has another premises in town that we are directed to and we purchased a spade type anchor at a very good price. We also decided to buy a big round fender to protect our stern from nudging the pontoon when the swell builds up (so glad we did!). We thought about those rubber or spring shock absorbers for our ropes but one of our neighbors said his only lasted around 10 days and another said they made their boat spring back and forward so much that they couldn't sleep. We used reinforced hose pipe and 3 ply nylon rope plus some 8 ply from our middle cleats as insurance, which worked great !

Anchor in situ

After our very tiring trip from the Canaries, hand steering all the way, we had to make a decision regarding a new auto pilot. After speaking to Raymarine specialist Gilson, we pulled the trigger and ordered a linear drive 'Evolution' system to be fitted. Also new cables for our VHF handsets.

Destination....Cape Verde

We set off with a decent forecast although we would have preferred the sea state not to be touching 3 meters, however it looked like the best we would get for a while.

On setting off we used our boom to pole out the jib and we're making 4.5 knots in the right direction with the wind likely to increase, we were happy!

Jib poled out with boom

El Hierro in the distance

Our plan to sail wing & wing didn't materialise because we were doing ok with only the jib and the sea state made it difficult to work on deck. The forecasted wave interval and directions just translated into waves from all over the place and about every 5 mins or so 3 growlers (strong breaking waves) in quick succession would knock us off course. Due to the sea state we didn't use our auto pilot because from previous experience we knew it would not cope. We had Artemis well balanced but the growlers and the gusts made steering at the helm very difficult so we worked 2 hour shifts. The nights were much more difficult. On the bright side, we didn't need to use the engine, plenty of wind.

Alison's shift

Miles's shift

We sighted something other than ourselves only about once a day. A cruise liner, fishing boat, a yacht hoved to, dolphins and the highlight, migrating turtles.

A cruise ship

Our fridge worked for about 4 days as our solar panel wasn't producing anything like what we get in a marina or at anchorage. We think the motion of the boat and because we were sailing south so the best of the sun was obscured by the sails were the culprits.

The half bottle of wine that we had been gifted by Phillipe an Imeda for 'New Year', we couldn't face so we had a kiss and cuddle instead!

New Year 2016

French Naval Ship, Mindelo

Approaching Mindelo we furled in the jib and motored with the auto pilot to get Artemis ready for mooring. The channel between the islands which leads to the marina was extremely windy and on arrival we were directed to a berth. Miles was determined to reverse in due to Alison's dodgy knee. We tied up safe and sound after 6 days 3 1/2 hours at sea. 800 nm.

Restinga, El Hierro

Restinga seemed a bit of a strange place at first, a sleepy seaside village with a lot of unfinished buildings and assorted abandoned machinery which reminded us of an American Indian Reservation. Then you can see the wood for the trees, a nicely developed shoreline around the marina with beach, very interesting lava formations, a well stocked supermarket, friendly locals and a marina community like no other.

Unusual lava formations

We explored the island with our amigos, Philippe & Imelda, visiting Valverde, Punta Grande etc...and the end of the known world until the 15th century, Punta Orchilla, where we walked through a volcanic cave.

Punta Grande

Volcanic Cave

La Frontera

Restinga Marina was very reasonably priced and we stayed longer than expected due to the weather between El Hierro and Cape Verde being unfavorable, so the Christmas sail was postponed to New Year.

For Christmas, all the sailing community got together ( mainly French, but also Swedish, Russian, Danish etc). We purchased a sheep and spit roasted it. Everyone contributed by baking bread, making cakes, salads.....you name it! This made for a very memorable Christmas Eve get together. Miles baked a traditional British Christmas Cake - once tasted, disappeared in a flash!

Miles taking his turn on the spit

Deja Vue

Whilst at La Gomera we celebrated my birthday with lunch at 'La Foresteria', a French owned restaurant with Philippe & Imelda.

La Foresteria

The time had come to sail to the final island in the Canaries, El Hierro.

The morning of departure we were up and ready before sun up to enable us to arrive in daylight. Ignition - start button - nothing! After some investigation, the problem seamed to be a flat battery. Still determined to go, I used the battery combiner to start the engine and off we went.

The wind was all over the place so we didn't get much sailing in, motoring most of the way. Just out of the lee of La Gomera we took down our mainsail due to what looked liked an approaching squall. Then we heard a loud bang......the engine battery had exploded (not again!). The squall never arrived and without our mainsail we were rolling from side to side. The battery casing was badly damaged and acid was spilling out with every movement. We felt bad about doing it but could see no alternative except to throw the battery over the side (with rubber gloves and goggles). The spilt acid was neutralized with bicarbonate of soda......crisis controlled.

When we arrived at Restinga, El Hierro we were very grateful to be directed to a berth by a number of other sailors who helped us to tie up. Thank you!

Inspecting our battery setup the next day, l realized that the engine battery was getting a constant charge from the shore power battery charger that was too dumb to differentiate between our two banks even though it has two outputs. So a rethink and a new battery from the next village, El Pina. Delivered by the local bus and we are up and running again....I hope! One of our house batteries was also flat, so now I am keeping a very close eye on the remaining 2 - showing green lights and the engine battery only gets charged when I want it charging.

La Gomera

Approaching San Sebastián we could see a large Fred Olsen ferry in the commercial port, just before the marina. Is it moving ? we asked each other, yes, no, could be ! We motored around in a circle until it had departed, on its way to Tenerife. Once around the mole we followed the small craft channel opposite the beach, radioed ahead and were directed to a great berth well inside the marina. We passed a British yacht who shouted a welcome and asked us if we wanted a hand mooring up, 'yes please' we replied. I read the name on their yacht 'Corramandel'. I had heard of them in our Yactmaster class and had followed their blog for a number of years, sometimes e-mailing them for advice etc. Like two hyperactive pixies, Lynn & Andy had us moored up in no time!

We dined on Corramandel and they dined on Artemis and as we chatted, remembering our Yachtmaster teacher, David Williams.

Rowing the Atlantic!

Headland

Best view of mount Teide

Santiago 

Never seen one of them before.

We were berthed next door to our friends Philippe & Imelda, 'Pilhaouer' - Great! They had their relatives, Lionel & Rosealine visiting for a fortnight and I was asked to entertain them one evening by playing my guitar. I think they enjoyed it!

San Sebatian is a very popular marina with yachts coming & going all the time. Being situated right in the town makes a welcome change from having to get the bus to the supermarket. The marina staff are excellent and are super helpful - and speak great English.

Morning brioche provided by S/V Rouge

We took a bus ride to the other side of the island, Valley Grand Rey, a coastal town/ resort. It was ok but we didn't think it was worth the bottom numbing 1 3/4 hour bus ride to get there.

I have recently been reading the ' Conquest & History' of the Canaries- free on Google books. Fascinating- especially as the latter half of the book is written by a Sea Captain in about 1760. I found it incredible that it took the Spanish 77 yrs to conquer Gran Canaria. They never gave up even though they faced serious opposition. A good read!

Tazacorte delay

When we arrived at Tazacorte and moored next door but one to our 'neighbors preferes' Pilhaouer, we noticed that they had some nice planks of wood attached to their stanchions and extra fuel cans attached to the wood. Copy time - we thinks! the planks are of triple use :-

1.  For a passerelle (gang plank)

2.  To put outside of your fenders when mooring next to piles etc

3.  To lash fuel cans to 

Philippe & Imelda had hired a car and took us to the wood shop where we bought 2 planks of Iroko ( after a measure up of course). Here they cut and trimmed them to size. Back at the boat I drilled some holes and chamfered the edges. They are attached to the stanchions with super strong French tie wraps which need a hand ratcheting devise to tighten, courtesy of our neighbor. Apparently the wood needs no varnish etc...we'll see!

Philippe has two crates to support his fuel cans, also tie wrapped and has put a band of webbing over the top to secure. We had to think of a different solution. Tried webbing with plastic click on fastenings but found them not to be strong enough (good yank broke them loose). I had downloaded a useful knot application on my tablet and after perusing the lashings section was able to secure the cans allowing zero movement. This took a lot of rope, luckily we already had some which came with Artemis. There was also space for the life raft which we previously stored on the cabin top (reduced visibility from the cockpit). For this installation we used 2 very strong webbing straps with locking mechanisms which we borrowed from spare safety harnesses.

Whilst at Tazacorte we only saw one other British yacht 'Flycatcher', aboard was a nice young couple we had a drink and chat with. Most of the boats here are German, French and Dutch.

We had planned to leave to La Gomera with our French neighbors and had paid up at the marina the night before so we could have an early start the following morning. That afternoon I (Miles) slipped on the cockpit sole and almost dived headfirst into the saloon. Stopping myself, I crashed down onto the companionway injuring my rib cage. That was me out of action! I have damaged ribs before and recovery is usually about 2 weeks. Michael, the German man next door heard about my accident. He called to see us as he is a doctor and gave me a full examination. Good news, possible fracture but not a complete break. He recommended rest and ibuprofen. Thank you Michael & Stephanie! It took a bit longer to recover. Four weeks later we sailed to La Gomera.

We left Tazacorte early in the morning whilst it was still dark and motored out of the marina. Did I say dark? Read pitch black! No moon, no stars nothing. We had put on the running lights and the tricolor so that small fishing vessels with no lights could definitely see Artemis. After dawn we had a pleasant sail, or should I say motor, as the wind was either too light or too strong and in the wrong direction. The acceleration zone doing its thing.

No rain forecast. What's that then?

Somebody got wet hee hee!

Getting nearer, La Gomera looked like that creepy island out of the King Kong movie (The one with Jack Black in it)