Tuesday 5 July 2016

Brazilian Upriver Haven

Before I tell you about our Brazilian experience - a nautical note on entering the river (Pariaba). We had planned to enter a couple of hours after low tide so that we would have enough water underneath us, not be fighting the current and if we hit a sand bar the tide would be coming in to float us off. 
Obvious, good practice. 
Well, we had discussed this with our French pals and written down the projected times allowing an hour difference each day. But we were so far away from our projected arrival that our rule of thumb of adding an hour each day could have become less than accurate. So a rethink was necessary. 
Were our original calculations for GMT (+1) or Central American time of +4 hours? I know, we will consult the Raymarine chart plotter, it's always right with the time and tide predictions, or is it? Should I keep it on Gmt or change for our location in the world. If I wasn't so tired my brain might work. 
    The crew and I were in disagreement by a number of hours. Who was right?

We decided to head to port at our earliest calculation and see how it went, we could always turn around. 
As we entered the channel we didn't seem to be getting any tide assistance but the sea current is so strong here, one could be battling the other. We continued until we came to the end of the (safe) bouyed channel.
We could see some local boats at anchor and as we watched them they gently swang on their moorings so that their sterns pointed upstream. The tide had just changed.
We were earlier than our chosen time but as we could see local yachts actually sailing from upstream and us drawing 1.5 metres or so, we continued.

All was fine and the waypoints were ok but probably not updated for a long time, you can actually see the areas of shallow water to avoid.
As for our tide predictions. Neither were correct. Also the time difference here according to my android tablet is 3 1/2 hrs, Brazillia time. iPad says 4 hrs. GMT - 4 hrs I believe to be correct.
I know I've gone on a bit but if you are coming here do some better homework than we did before setting off.
We were fine because we are cautious.
A yacht that moored next to us a few weeks later had entered at night and hit a fishermans net stretched across the full width of the river. It took him 2 hrs to cut himself free.

Jacare Village Marina is like a 70's campsite facility on first impressions, it has since had a tidy up and now looks more presentable. There is a bar/restaurant, wifi, tv, laundry, multi gym, small swimming pool, toilets and showers, table tennis and library. 
At least 3 members of staff speak English.
Our first meal there was steak chips and salad and was superb, we can also recommend the pizza.
The prices are a bit 'european' and there is much cheaper food to be found out and about but not of the same quality. 
We wouldn't usually be so appreciative of restaurant food but after 20 days at sea!!! 
We also used the laundry as a treat - not cheap. Back to hand washing now.
Other services include diesel delivery, taxi calling, help with checking in at customs, police and port Captain.
These services are a great help but don't expect anything for nothing, there is usually a charge.
The clientele are mostly French with a smattering of other nationalities. 

Jacare Village Marina





Caipirinha's with Phillipe and Imelda

Although we moved from Jacare Village Marine we are still welcome as long as we are spending of course. The safest place to leave your boat if you are flying home or touring South America by land.

The heat here in March/April is in the mid 30's and the lack of breeze didn't help. Time to use our Air Conditioning. It worked for half an hour then conked out. Our fridge was also playing up.
We cleaned everything we could think of on the air con, water intake filter, radiator fan etc.. 
No better.
The fridge problem we put down to the refrigerant having not settled after being shook up, so much en route. So we switched it off for a couple of days to see if it would make any difference. Nope.
Also the pontoon junction box tripped when we tried to heat water. Boiling a kettle was ok though.
Some of our neighbours suggested that the pontoon electricity was not very powerful.

We then met South African Alan Ward and his pal Phillipe S/V Windward. He was on the next pontoon along and told us that his electricity was good, got wifi on the boat, rates reasonable, why don't we move?
We enquired and the monthly rate worked out at about 10 euros/night.
We moved to Peter's Pier (Nautico Centro Jacare) after a week and the air con works perfect. The fridge is fine which I can't really explain as its 12 volt but maybe our vintage battery charger wasn't doing so well with reduced voltage and the wifi is very good.
The cons of our move are: toilets/showers and pontoon water supply only in business hours 7.30 - 5.30 closed Monday and security cameras (not a physical guard like Jacare Village Marina has on a night). Not too bad.

Peter's Pier

Alison was delighted to see cows

'Merci's' ensign looks superb - next time we must remember to get 100/50 ratio as it still looks a bit too square.

A plus apart from those already mentioned is that we can buy a bag of ice from the marina office and use about a third of it for our new favourite evening drink 'Caipirinha' and store the rest in their freezer.

One problem we did have was that while Jacare Village Marina has 24hr security, the cameras and guard dog at our present location became ineffective during a blackout power cut and an opportunist thief wrenched the fishing rod from our push pit handrail, breaking the holder and had away with it.
We heard something at the back of the boat and as I peered from the companionway the thief was making his getaway into the darkness. I didn't fancy giving chase in the pitch black.
It had crossed my mind to put it down below but didn't bother! Tut!
Oh well, never used it anyway. I put an extra chain on the outboard engine for peace of mind.

We like it here, a lot of things are super cheap, especially public transport and the Brazilian people we have met here are friendly and kind. This part of the country is not exactly a tourist destination for foreigners so a lot of people stare, unsurprisingly as we look very Northern European.