La Gomera

Approaching San Sebastián we could see a large Fred Olsen ferry in the commercial port, just before the marina. Is it moving ? we asked each other, yes, no, could be ! We motored around in a circle until it had departed, on its way to Tenerife. Once around the mole we followed the small craft channel opposite the beach, radioed ahead and were directed to a great berth well inside the marina. We passed a British yacht who shouted a welcome and asked us if we wanted a hand mooring up, 'yes please' we replied. I read the name on their yacht 'Corramandel'. I had heard of them in our Yactmaster class and had followed their blog for a number of years, sometimes e-mailing them for advice etc. Like two hyperactive pixies, Lynn & Andy had us moored up in no time!

We dined on Corramandel and they dined on Artemis and as we chatted, remembering our Yachtmaster teacher, David Williams.

Rowing the Atlantic!

Headland

Best view of mount Teide

Santiago 

Never seen one of them before.

We were berthed next door to our friends Philippe & Imelda, 'Pilhaouer' - Great! They had their relatives, Lionel & Rosealine visiting for a fortnight and I was asked to entertain them one evening by playing my guitar. I think they enjoyed it!

San Sebatian is a very popular marina with yachts coming & going all the time. Being situated right in the town makes a welcome change from having to get the bus to the supermarket. The marina staff are excellent and are super helpful - and speak great English.

Morning brioche provided by S/V Rouge

We took a bus ride to the other side of the island, Valley Grand Rey, a coastal town/ resort. It was ok but we didn't think it was worth the bottom numbing 1 3/4 hour bus ride to get there.

I have recently been reading the ' Conquest & History' of the Canaries- free on Google books. Fascinating- especially as the latter half of the book is written by a Sea Captain in about 1760. I found it incredible that it took the Spanish 77 yrs to conquer Gran Canaria. They never gave up even though they faced serious opposition. A good read!

Tazacorte delay

When we arrived at Tazacorte and moored next door but one to our 'neighbors preferes' Pilhaouer, we noticed that they had some nice planks of wood attached to their stanchions and extra fuel cans attached to the wood. Copy time - we thinks! the planks are of triple use :-

1.  For a passerelle (gang plank)

2.  To put outside of your fenders when mooring next to piles etc

3.  To lash fuel cans to 

Philippe & Imelda had hired a car and took us to the wood shop where we bought 2 planks of Iroko ( after a measure up of course). Here they cut and trimmed them to size. Back at the boat I drilled some holes and chamfered the edges. They are attached to the stanchions with super strong French tie wraps which need a hand ratcheting devise to tighten, courtesy of our neighbor. Apparently the wood needs no varnish etc...we'll see!

Philippe has two crates to support his fuel cans, also tie wrapped and has put a band of webbing over the top to secure. We had to think of a different solution. Tried webbing with plastic click on fastenings but found them not to be strong enough (good yank broke them loose). I had downloaded a useful knot application on my tablet and after perusing the lashings section was able to secure the cans allowing zero movement. This took a lot of rope, luckily we already had some which came with Artemis. There was also space for the life raft which we previously stored on the cabin top (reduced visibility from the cockpit). For this installation we used 2 very strong webbing straps with locking mechanisms which we borrowed from spare safety harnesses.

Whilst at Tazacorte we only saw one other British yacht 'Flycatcher', aboard was a nice young couple we had a drink and chat with. Most of the boats here are German, French and Dutch.

We had planned to leave to La Gomera with our French neighbors and had paid up at the marina the night before so we could have an early start the following morning. That afternoon I (Miles) slipped on the cockpit sole and almost dived headfirst into the saloon. Stopping myself, I crashed down onto the companionway injuring my rib cage. That was me out of action! I have damaged ribs before and recovery is usually about 2 weeks. Michael, the German man next door heard about my accident. He called to see us as he is a doctor and gave me a full examination. Good news, possible fracture but not a complete break. He recommended rest and ibuprofen. Thank you Michael & Stephanie! It took a bit longer to recover. Four weeks later we sailed to La Gomera.

We left Tazacorte early in the morning whilst it was still dark and motored out of the marina. Did I say dark? Read pitch black! No moon, no stars nothing. We had put on the running lights and the tricolor so that small fishing vessels with no lights could definitely see Artemis. After dawn we had a pleasant sail, or should I say motor, as the wind was either too light or too strong and in the wrong direction. The acceleration zone doing its thing.

No rain forecast. What's that then?

Somebody got wet hee hee!

Getting nearer, La Gomera looked like that creepy island out of the King Kong movie (The one with Jack Black in it)

Tazacorte La Palma

After our week recovering at Santa Cruise we set off for Tazacorte on the other side of the Island. Go via the North or via the South was the choice.

We chose South and think it was the right choice. We were more on our game this time and had a beautifully controlled sail south and when the acceleration zone tried its best to shake us we were ready for it.
Just after passing the Southern tip of La Palma the wind died dramatically and mist hung over the water. A little further on and there was a breeze against us as we had expected and we motored the rest of the way past miles and miles of Banana plantations.

We arrived on schedule at Tazacorte Marina and moored next door but one to our French friends.

The weather here is very different to the other side of the Island. Drier, sunnier and less wind, calmer sea. There is a beach close by and a mini market that has all the essentials. A short bus ride takes us to Tazacorte town and a couple of supermarkets that deliver. A little further there is Los Llanos, a large town with loads of shops.

We ordered a new autopilot belt from 'El Chopo' chandlery/fishing shop. The 2 brothers in there have lived in London and speak perfect English. Great.

On fitting the belt we realised why the old one, although still in good condition had snapped. A circlip that stops the steering wheel from going too far on the spindle had broken so the belt was getting twisted. Looking for the correct part - have put a jubilee clip on in the meantime. 1 inch dia. in a metric country problem again.

We accompanied Imelda and Phillipe on a couple of the fantastic walks/hikes here. Either our fitness is not what it used to be or the hikes were a lot further than advertised. A bit of both perhaps. After the first hike we could hard walk for a week - our calves were on fire.

The highest point of La Palma where the there are quite a few observatories.

A wine tasting visit

The long hike with Phillipe and Imelda

The finger

Cooling off

The second walk we were nearly hit by a rockfall.

I got a bit scathed scrambling out of the way.

We did see some fantastic scenery and vistas.

We particularly liked the prehistoric landscapes and the frogs and dragonflys.

La Palma

We decided to leave Garachico with a night sail to give ourselves a greater selection of destinations. In other words to keep going if the going was good. Plan A was Santa Cruz de La Palma, plan B Tazacorte and plan C Gomera. It's good to have options.

In retrospect, the night sail after so long in Garachico, a very sheltered,calm, flat water marina was a mistake. I felt queasy getting back on the ocean and in the night we couldn't see what the sails were up to. Our speedo wasn't reading correctly, the vhf was playing up again and the crew were a bit rusty from 6 weeks off!  When the wind and sea state got up in the acceleration zone between the islands we had trouble slowing the boat down and the autopilot belt snapped.

So plan A, the nearest destination was chosen - Santa Cruz, La Palma's capital

We radioed the port authority for permission to enter marina La Palma as the port is busy with ferries, cruise liners and cargo ships.
We berthed on the reception pontoon whilst it was still dark and slept until the office opened.

A very nice town, lovely marina office and facilities and a mini Spa supermarket and cafes facing the marina. We had read that the marina suffers from surge and swell and yes it is 'rolley' like being at anchor but probably very good for keeping your sea legs.

We did some sight seeing and stocked up on cheap tobacco and recovered for a week.

The Balconies

Note the balconies house the toilet

Maritime Museum

Beautiful Square complete with bandstand above cafe

Garachico

At Garachico we caught up with Phillipe and Imelda (S/V Pilhaouers). It was great to see them again. They had hired a car and we went with them to La Orotava for a day out, incorporating a picnic in the mountains. A good day.

The beautiful gardens in La Orotava

Phillippe, Miles & Imelda

Whilst at Garachico our son Zak flew out for a weeks holiday. There were many fiestas at that time of year, every weekend it seemed, the biggest was to celebrate the eruption of mount Tiedi that almost kiboshed the town, only celebrated every 5 years and was quite spectacular.

Zak & Alison 

Fantastic Floats

Fiesta celebrating the volcanic eruption

The marina is only a few years old and very pleasant. One of our favorites. If you are visiting yourself by boat take care near the marina entrance as on the port side there are a couple of partially submerged rocks that are not marked yet. (A west cardinal I would suggest) so stay well to starboard and you will be fine. We were warned previously by an email from 'Pilhaours', very grateful.

Marina entrance (note the white water-submerged rocks!!!!

Very smart marina. spoilt only be the sound of traditional Canarian music being pelted out at full blast by a local power boat behind us, when he wasn't at work. He also had his phone connected to his stereo by bluetooth so all of his calls and message/text notifications - you know that annoying whistlng ditty that Samsung have- were broadcast as well.

 You know I'm not one to grumble (MUCH) but that music is bloody awful. we put on our stereo so we couldn't hear his but I think he could hear ours 'cos of the wind and turned his up louder. I didn't want to get into a volume war, although we have a pretty good stereo onboard so we went below decks and listened to ours there. I didn't complain because it was fiesta time and didn't want to upset the locals.

I think he must have been telt by somebody because after about 3 occasions he turned it down really low or not on at all. Thank God.

There was no wifi at the marina but we got a good connection at El Roque cafe, 10 mins walk.

Radazul to Garachico. At last!!!!!!!

We left Radazul early Sunday morning (28 June). No wind to speak of, but with our super smooth hull (Hempel Racing White) we made over 6 knots instead of the 4.5 knots with a dirty bottom. the repacked stern gland wasn't dripping (it should a bit) so I adjusted it with 2 huge spanners. Now ok!

Approaching the Punta De Anaga NE corner of Tenerife and an acceleration zone, the wind blasted us at 30 knots on the nose. Our speed fell to 1.4 kn at one time. This reminded us of Cape Vincent ( S/W Portugal ) but after 2 hours the wind ended.

So with the wind in the wrong direction or not at all we motored all,the way to Garachico.

   El Teide, Tenerife's volcano

On approaching the harbour entrance we remembered the warning email we had received from S/V Pilhaouers about uncharted rocks but even the prior warning did not prepare us for the looming slabs of rock just beneath the surface on our port side, with unbelievably no warning bouy or markers.

A Spanish family In an RIB whizzed along to warn us of what we had just seen. Thank you.

We berthed safely in this beautiful marina and hope to catch up with friends.........

Radazul Marina - In the boatyard

We left Santa Cruz to sail to Radazul, a short journey, 6 miles south.

   Leaving Santa Cruz

When we arrived at the visitors pontoon it was in a poor state. Cleats full of old ropes and Alison & Gene had problems securing Artemis. Alison badly grazed her Knee. We spent a night on a berth before being lifted the next morning. Pretty straightforward, plenty of staff to take ropes and very good communication.

List of works:-

Jet wash

Sanding

Repair to damaged rudder (la Caruna)

New max prop anode ( fitted 3 months ago - missing!)

Hull anode

Refitting of rope cutter

Head sea cock replaced

Anti fouling

Stern gland repacked

Hull cleaned and waxed............phew!!!!

Whilst in Radazul boatyard we had hoped to take advantage of the close-by beach and swimming area. The first time in the water Alison's knee reacted badly to the wet and I sliced my toe on something sharp in the water. No swimming for Alison and it was scorching!

The Hiperdino Supermarket was up the hill, not any hill but a great big hill. Quite a task in the scorching heat, however they did deliver. You couldn't get a stick of bread near the marina but the cafe was good  with coffee ( large) at €1.

Gene decided that after 5 months on Artemis that he would like to return to England. He missed English food, friends, family and amazingly 'British Weather' ( too hot to skateboard!). 

We saw him on the bus at Santa Cruz bound for Tenerife South Airport on the 26th June. Whilst we were in Santa Cruz we hunted down a decent tobacconist and stocked up on smoking tackle as Radazul was bereft of tobacco, papers and filters ( we like to roll our own and have done since we were college kids).

After a week we were gladly back in the water and preparing for our next destination............