Rigging adjustment & Dingy refurb

Crossing the Atlantic we had noticed that our lower standing rigging was on the loose side. We asked Brian to check and adjust it for us. Unfortunately he was called away to repair a marina pontoon (his speciality) in Recife and would be away for a number of weeks. Then Bill arrives on his catamaran, a cruising sail repairer who set up shop on the table tennis table in Jacare Village Marina. On asking he came straight over and started work, first freeing off (they were a bit (lot) seized) our adjusters, then tensioning and checking, tensioning and checking....job done. 

Miles & Bill

Our lazy lifestyle hadn't kept our boat very clean so we set to work for the next couple of weeks, scrubbing,cleaning, tidying the interior, deck and top sides. The serious amount of work required to clean the weed and shellfish from our hull bottoms was given to local, Mr Do-it-all, 'Rambo'. He came recommended and did an excellent job. Not many boats here relish cleaning their own hull bottoms as the river water is dark, solidly and organic...full of life, l suppose! That's why the weed grows so prolifically, no anti foul works here and most of the local power boats are stored on land and only launched when being used.

Rambo

Artemis' clean waterline

For our future cruising grounds we are going to need our dingy. We had a look at it and decided that it could do with a refurb. First we sourced some replacement wooden slats from Juliano ( his speciality is steelwork) who lives/works next door to Jacare Village Marina. He got us some reclaimed hardwood planking and cut it to size...brill!

We bought some sandpaper, paint brushes and exterior gloss 

Alison painting

Painted wooden slats

Sail repair and visa extension

Moored off our pontoon was Christoff, a German sail repairer and dingy maker who has a workshop in the village. We got him to repair our spare mainsail that was damaged crossing Biscay, 2 years ago. He did a very thorough job.

Miles & Christoff

Beautiful handmade table

One of Christoffs dingies

Our 3 month visa was nearly up but we were not ready to leave as we needed to get motivated to prepare the boat. After slipping into the Brazilian 'manhana', take your time attitude but it still drove us nuts. How long we had to wait to get served at the local mini market shop..it had a suprisingly good selection of food especially when you ventured into the back where the fruit/veg and freezers are and of course 20 cigarettes for 3 real (about 60p). Solution - we extended our visa for another 3 months...sorted!

Yellow Fever Vaccination

We decided to get our Yellow Fever Vaccination whilst in Brazil, as we needed proof of one when we travel north. Peter & Netto at the marina got us an address in Cabedelo, a short train ride away, to get the jab. The Innoculation Centre had no street number so we started asking directions when we couldn't find it. After an hour of being sent pillar to post, we found the place.

Netto & Peter (Peters Pier)

Unfortunately they only supplied the vaccine, not administing it. Enter Laurita who spoke some English. She took us and the vaccine (in cool box) to a local Medical Centre in her car. She spoke to the doctor and hey presto we got the jab free of charge and back to the Distribution Centre we were given a slip of paper to prove it. Looks good eh?

Back at the marina we tell Peter that we were successful. "So you got the Yellow Certificate ?" he says. "No, white" we replied

"Let's have a look at it"......"Ah, you have had the swine flu vaccine, very difficult to get here, how did you manage that?"

"Hmm....communication problem!" we replied.

Well, we had Laurita as a friend on Facebook, so we told her our dilemma.

We met her again at the Distribution Centre and she took us to another Medical Centre. Unfortunately we were too late for the morning session. Back after lunch we were asked lots of questions which were inputted into a PC. We at last get the correct vaccination. For some reason we cannot get the yellow certificate but information is added to our slip of paper and stamped and Laurita will collect the correct certificate at a later date and visit us on Artemis.

Weeks pass and no Laurita.....she's on holiday, so we decide to sort this out ourselves and return to the clinic. 'Porto' they said so we headed to the Port and we are directed to Envisa who supply the certificates. No can do....the computers are down and we are instructed to go to Joao Pessoa Airport. Jeez!!! We call in to see Silvio in Customs to say hello whilst we are there. When he asks, what brings us this way, we tell him. Silvio is straight on the telephone to Envisa. One of the Envisa guys comes to his office and after a long discussion we return back with him. The certificates are filled out by hand and stamped instead of computer printed.....thank you Silvio!

This hopping about on the trains is great, but doesn't always go to plan. Sometimes trains are cancelled and we have to hike to the bus stop. For a few weeks no trains were running into Joao Pessoa due to rail repairs and other times we missed the train by a few minutes and the next one is in 1 1/2 hours. Then the train times were changed so our printed timetable was useless...super cheap though.

Joao Pessoa

The nearby city of Joao Pessoa is easy to visit via a 30 min train journey at the cost of 25cents (2 people). Great for shopping and weigh your plate lunch. We tried to source products, 'Made in Brazil, goods such as cotton sheets, cutlery, shoes, clothing as imported goods carry a high tax. 

One day we visited the Zoo, near the city Centre. It was not commercial at all and we got to see some southern continent animals that we wouldn't have seen, as well as animals from all over the world. We are not fans of Zoos generally however our entry ticket probably helped to feed some of the animals.

Brian Stevens' Yard

Just short of Jacare Village is Brian Stevens' Boatyard. Brian Is a British expat who has lived here for 40 years. He is very hospitable and visiting cruisers are welcome to use his workshop, his bicycles and even a car. He lifts boats with trailer/tractor or car combo and supplies anti foul and repair services. He has designed and built a wind vane auto pilot system that can be operated electronically. A German boat was currently having it fitted whilst we were there.

We were invited to Brian's weekend retreat along with other English speaking yachties. Cars were arranged (about 30 mins travel time) and we took beers and food for the BBQ. The house has interesting grounds, swimming pool, table tennis and snooker, and of course like minded companions to chat with. We went 3 times and always enjoyed it.....thanks Brian!

On one occasion Brian had visiting relatives and organized a day out in a mini bus. We yachties were invited to fill up the seats and we toured the area visiting country towns and museums. Brian loved being our host for the day and we had a great time visiting places we wouldn't have got the chance to see otherwise. Of particular note were the Cachaca distilleries where we sampled the produce including cachaca ice cream. Alison bought a t-shirt.

Jacare Village, Cabedelo, Brazil

A hundred yards upstream lies Jacare Village. The tourist hot spot of the area, renowned for its sunset cruises, accompanied by live saxophone playing. The sax player, over many years has made the village popular and profitable. There are numerous shops that cater for the visitors, only opening from 4 pm - 6 pm, 8 pm during the weekend, selling clothes, souvenirs, jewelry etc. There is the Treehouse bar & restaurant, sometimes we enjoyed it, sometimes it was too busy and noisy. My favourite shop was the House of Nuts, no guesses for what they sell! Unfortunately Alison banned me from going there after a €45 spend. You would think nuts would be cheap in Brazil.....think again....not even in the supermarkets.

Every evening the sunset cruise boats would pass close to our pontoon, dancing, singing and very loud music. The people on board always looked like they were having a great time. The boats were our cue for our favourite alcoholic beverage Caipirinha (sugar cane alcohol with limes, ice and fake sugar for me).