Photo Shoot

One day we were asked by a bikini manufacturer if they could use Artemis as a set. 'Yes' we said ( It will make us/the boat look good on Facebook we thought). We expected a couple of bikini changes with an hour or two for photos. No this was serious! They had hired a International model, Analise Rufine....gorgeous, a photographer and crew, lighting and make-up. They showed us last years catalogue that was extensive. All day we had the shoot, at least 20 bikinis/swimsuit changes and a good time. It was a pleasure to host them and Artemis looked great in the pics....the model, not bad either😉

For the ladies...haha!

As a thank you, Alison was given a bikini of her choice as well as a beach cover up. We also got a copy of the completed catalogue before we sailed. Interesting for visitors onboard 'Artemis' maybe?!

News Moda make and sell beachwear worldwide....if your interested, get in touch.

This is the style of bikini Alison chose...nice eh!?

Recife and Yngwie Malmsteen

Another reason for getting a visa extension is that we knew our favourite guitarist Yngwie (pronounced 'Ingvay') Malmsteen was touring South America, with shows in Brazil coming up. Not a concert as such but a guitar show/ask questions/clinic type of thing. 

Recife was the nearest venue so we set about trying to get tickets, arrange transport and book a hotel. Getting the tickets for the show wasn't easy. We could only buy them online, however we required a Brazilian ID/tax number to be allowed to purchase one. After a bit of research, we found out that we could apply for a number at the local Post Office, pay 7 Reals and then get the bus into Joao Pessoas' tax office to get the card proper and then go to the Xerox shop to get it laminated....simples!

The other questions on the online form that we didn't have an answer to, I put in my passport number and hoped for the best. I had to put the Marinas address as it wouldn't accept an overseas address...could be a problem trying to pay with a visa registered to a UK address. Yes it didn't work. Tried another card, no....tried again with the original card...bingo, got the tickets...yippee! Netto the marina manager printed them off. Thanks!

Next up transport. A bus ones every hour from Joao Pessoa Interstate Bus Station and takes 2 hours. We decided to make this an extended break so we found a nice hotel on Lastminute.com and booked for 4 nights. When we were looking for hotels on the internet we found quite a few that were 'No Smoking'. On further investigation it appears that Recife has signed up with the World Health Organisation to basically ban smoking as much as possible...admiral...but not very good when you just want to visit and smoke like a chimney. I also found out that Brazil like Europe, smoking is banned in public places...ok...but walking along the pavement! Yes, banned there too. Thankfully not enforced.

So it was a relief to find the Best Western Mariba Hotel at Pina Beach, Recife that offered smoking rooms...room booked!

I must tell you about the bus ride there. To buy the tickets, we had to show our passports...ok. Pay a little extra because they were running the 'Executive' coach at the time we wanted to depart. Whilst waiting for the bus I thought I better visit the toilet and force myself to pee. When I stood at the urinal a young man a few feet away kept looking round and staring....I couldn't go! No problem I'll go back in 10 minutes. On my return there is the same guy stood there pretending to pee and as I walk in through the door, stares me right in the face. Bloody rent boy! I pop into a stall and lock the door, peed in peace and made a swift exit.

To board the bus you have to go through a turnstile courtesy of a security guard using your barcoded ticket. Next, give your luggage to a guy who applies a sticker, loads into the luggage compartment and then puts the counterpart on your ticket. He then pulls up a wheeled lectern next to the bus' steps, we stand in line for our turn and he then checks our tickets and our passports. Then we board the bus....sorry 'Executive Coach'...very comfortable it is to! The driver (same guy) gives us a pre journey talk just like being on a plane. We couldn't understand a word but it looked a though he was informing us of the emergency exits and how to open the security door between us passengers and the driver/exit. What a palaver, but quite nice! Also at the station and at various stops, hawkers are allowed onboard to sell fruit, water and various snacks. We were fully prepared with packed lunches and drinks.

Recifes' Interstate Bus Station is incredibly far from the city. Rather than spend the whole day traveling, we took a taxi to our hotel. Yes we could smoke in our room (would rather have had a balcony) and there was coffee/tea making facilities we weren't expecting. Lovely room, lovely clean hotel.

The prices are more European in Recife and although we looked around 2 huge shopping centers, we didn't buy much. It made us appreciate the cheapness of our local stores.

View from our hotel

View from shopping mall

One day we walked to the harbour to see the yacht clubs as we would have liked to arrive on Artemis. However being south from Jacare the current and wind would be against us. The harbor looked windswept and the waves were spraying over the harbour wall. Also the area we had walked through to get there, looked well dodgy so we took a taxi back to our hotel.

On the night of the guitar show we took a taxi to the Teatro do IMIP, a media Centre within the hospital. We knew we had found the right place by a queue of denim and black shirted Brazilians, some carrying guitars. Doors open at 4pm, show starts at 4:30pm. No chance....the flight carrying Yngwie Malmsteen had been delayed...we'd have to wait. We got chatting to some guys who spoke English to pass the time. One young man phoned his girlfriend whilst we were talking and we said hello. She burst into tears of happiness as it was one of her ambitions to speak English to an English person...wow! Anyway after waiting for 3 1/2 hours we were finally allowed into the auditorium. On the stage were 4 Fender Malmsteen guitars, his pedal board and quite a few of his Marshall signature heads and cabs. Everyone is taking photos! A bearded guy introduces the man himself and Malmsteen plays through an instrumental with a backing track. He talks a little, answers some questions, plays a number and this goes on for an all too brief 40 mins. Goodbye and he's off! Some of the questions were rediculous....

"Can I have a guitar pick?"

"Will you sign my guitar?"

"When are you releasing a new album?"......asked twice. He had just released the album 'World on Fire" the previous month.

Malmsteen himself was super cool throughout and looked a lot better than I expected. He made the guitar playing look effortless (of course). And the best reply to a question to a guy who said he played guitar like Malmsteen..."Oh great, I'm feeling a bit ill, you can do tomorrow nights show!" Excellent!!!

Waiting!

More waiting!

Fenders

Malmsteen

Rigging adjustment & Dingy refurb

Crossing the Atlantic we had noticed that our lower standing rigging was on the loose side. We asked Brian to check and adjust it for us. Unfortunately he was called away to repair a marina pontoon (his speciality) in Recife and would be away for a number of weeks. Then Bill arrives on his catamaran, a cruising sail repairer who set up shop on the table tennis table in Jacare Village Marina. On asking he came straight over and started work, first freeing off (they were a bit (lot) seized) our adjusters, then tensioning and checking, tensioning and checking....job done. 

Miles & Bill

Our lazy lifestyle hadn't kept our boat very clean so we set to work for the next couple of weeks, scrubbing,cleaning, tidying the interior, deck and top sides. The serious amount of work required to clean the weed and shellfish from our hull bottoms was given to local, Mr Do-it-all, 'Rambo'. He came recommended and did an excellent job. Not many boats here relish cleaning their own hull bottoms as the river water is dark, solidly and organic...full of life, l suppose! That's why the weed grows so prolifically, no anti foul works here and most of the local power boats are stored on land and only launched when being used.

Rambo

Artemis' clean waterline

For our future cruising grounds we are going to need our dingy. We had a look at it and decided that it could do with a refurb. First we sourced some replacement wooden slats from Juliano ( his speciality is steelwork) who lives/works next door to Jacare Village Marina. He got us some reclaimed hardwood planking and cut it to size...brill!

We bought some sandpaper, paint brushes and exterior gloss 

Alison painting

Painted wooden slats

Sail repair and visa extension

Moored off our pontoon was Christoff, a German sail repairer and dingy maker who has a workshop in the village. We got him to repair our spare mainsail that was damaged crossing Biscay, 2 years ago. He did a very thorough job.

Miles & Christoff

Beautiful handmade table

One of Christoffs dingies

Our 3 month visa was nearly up but we were not ready to leave as we needed to get motivated to prepare the boat. After slipping into the Brazilian 'manhana', take your time attitude but it still drove us nuts. How long we had to wait to get served at the local mini market shop..it had a suprisingly good selection of food especially when you ventured into the back where the fruit/veg and freezers are and of course 20 cigarettes for 3 real (about 60p). Solution - we extended our visa for another 3 months...sorted!

Yellow Fever Vaccination

We decided to get our Yellow Fever Vaccination whilst in Brazil, as we needed proof of one when we travel north. Peter & Netto at the marina got us an address in Cabedelo, a short train ride away, to get the jab. The Innoculation Centre had no street number so we started asking directions when we couldn't find it. After an hour of being sent pillar to post, we found the place.

Netto & Peter (Peters Pier)

Unfortunately they only supplied the vaccine, not administing it. Enter Laurita who spoke some English. She took us and the vaccine (in cool box) to a local Medical Centre in her car. She spoke to the doctor and hey presto we got the jab free of charge and back to the Distribution Centre we were given a slip of paper to prove it. Looks good eh?

Back at the marina we tell Peter that we were successful. "So you got the Yellow Certificate ?" he says. "No, white" we replied

"Let's have a look at it"......"Ah, you have had the swine flu vaccine, very difficult to get here, how did you manage that?"

"Hmm....communication problem!" we replied.

Well, we had Laurita as a friend on Facebook, so we told her our dilemma.

We met her again at the Distribution Centre and she took us to another Medical Centre. Unfortunately we were too late for the morning session. Back after lunch we were asked lots of questions which were inputted into a PC. We at last get the correct vaccination. For some reason we cannot get the yellow certificate but information is added to our slip of paper and stamped and Laurita will collect the correct certificate at a later date and visit us on Artemis.

Weeks pass and no Laurita.....she's on holiday, so we decide to sort this out ourselves and return to the clinic. 'Porto' they said so we headed to the Port and we are directed to Envisa who supply the certificates. No can do....the computers are down and we are instructed to go to Joao Pessoa Airport. Jeez!!! We call in to see Silvio in Customs to say hello whilst we are there. When he asks, what brings us this way, we tell him. Silvio is straight on the telephone to Envisa. One of the Envisa guys comes to his office and after a long discussion we return back with him. The certificates are filled out by hand and stamped instead of computer printed.....thank you Silvio!

This hopping about on the trains is great, but doesn't always go to plan. Sometimes trains are cancelled and we have to hike to the bus stop. For a few weeks no trains were running into Joao Pessoa due to rail repairs and other times we missed the train by a few minutes and the next one is in 1 1/2 hours. Then the train times were changed so our printed timetable was useless...super cheap though.

Joao Pessoa

The nearby city of Joao Pessoa is easy to visit via a 30 min train journey at the cost of 25cents (2 people). Great for shopping and weigh your plate lunch. We tried to source products, 'Made in Brazil, goods such as cotton sheets, cutlery, shoes, clothing as imported goods carry a high tax. 

One day we visited the Zoo, near the city Centre. It was not commercial at all and we got to see some southern continent animals that we wouldn't have seen, as well as animals from all over the world. We are not fans of Zoos generally however our entry ticket probably helped to feed some of the animals.

Brian Stevens' Yard

Just short of Jacare Village is Brian Stevens' Boatyard. Brian Is a British expat who has lived here for 40 years. He is very hospitable and visiting cruisers are welcome to use his workshop, his bicycles and even a car. He lifts boats with trailer/tractor or car combo and supplies anti foul and repair services. He has designed and built a wind vane auto pilot system that can be operated electronically. A German boat was currently having it fitted whilst we were there.

We were invited to Brian's weekend retreat along with other English speaking yachties. Cars were arranged (about 30 mins travel time) and we took beers and food for the BBQ. The house has interesting grounds, swimming pool, table tennis and snooker, and of course like minded companions to chat with. We went 3 times and always enjoyed it.....thanks Brian!

On one occasion Brian had visiting relatives and organized a day out in a mini bus. We yachties were invited to fill up the seats and we toured the area visiting country towns and museums. Brian loved being our host for the day and we had a great time visiting places we wouldn't have got the chance to see otherwise. Of particular note were the Cachaca distilleries where we sampled the produce including cachaca ice cream. Alison bought a t-shirt.

Jacare Village, Cabedelo, Brazil

A hundred yards upstream lies Jacare Village. The tourist hot spot of the area, renowned for its sunset cruises, accompanied by live saxophone playing. The sax player, over many years has made the village popular and profitable. There are numerous shops that cater for the visitors, only opening from 4 pm - 6 pm, 8 pm during the weekend, selling clothes, souvenirs, jewelry etc. There is the Treehouse bar & restaurant, sometimes we enjoyed it, sometimes it was too busy and noisy. My favourite shop was the House of Nuts, no guesses for what they sell! Unfortunately Alison banned me from going there after a €45 spend. You would think nuts would be cheap in Brazil.....think again....not even in the supermarkets.

Every evening the sunset cruise boats would pass close to our pontoon, dancing, singing and very loud music. The people on board always looked like they were having a great time. The boats were our cue for our favourite alcoholic beverage Caipirinha (sugar cane alcohol with limes, ice and fake sugar for me).

Brazilian Upriver Haven

Before I tell you about our Brazilian experience - a nautical note on entering the river (Pariaba). We had planned to enter a couple of hours after low tide so that we would have enough water underneath us, not be fighting the current and if we hit a sand bar the tide would be coming in to float us off. 

Obvious, good practice. 

Well, we had discussed this with our French pals and written down the projected times allowing an hour difference each day. But we were so far away from our projected arrival that our rule of thumb of adding an hour each day could have become less than accurate. So a rethink was necessary. 

Were our original calculations for GMT (+1) or Central American time of +4 hours? I know, we will consult the Raymarine chart plotter, it's always right with the time and tide predictions, or is it? Should I keep it on Gmt or change for our location in the world. If I wasn't so tired my brain might work. 

    The crew and I were in disagreement by a number of hours. Who was right?

We decided to head to port at our earliest calculation and see how it went, we could always turn around. 

As we entered the channel we didn't seem to be getting any tide assistance but the sea current is so strong here, one could be battling the other. We continued until we came to the end of the (safe) bouyed channel.

We could see some local boats at anchor and as we watched them they gently swang on their moorings so that their sterns pointed upstream. The tide had just changed.

We were earlier than our chosen time but as we could see local yachts actually sailing from upstream and us drawing 1.5 metres or so, we continued.

All was fine and the waypoints were ok but probably not updated for a long time, you can actually see the areas of shallow water to avoid.

As for our tide predictions. Neither were correct. Also the time difference here according to my android tablet is 3 1/2 hrs, Brazillia time. iPad says 4 hrs. GMT - 4 hrs I believe to be correct.

I know I've gone on a bit but if you are coming here do some better homework than we did before setting off.

We were fine because we are cautious.

A yacht that moored next to us a few weeks later had entered at night and hit a fishermans net stretched across the full width of the river. It took him 2 hrs to cut himself free.

Jacare Village Marina is like a 70's campsite facility on first impressions, it has since had a tidy up and now looks more presentable. There is a bar/restaurant, wifi, tv, laundry, multi gym, small swimming pool, toilets and showers, table tennis and library. 

At least 3 members of staff speak English.

Our first meal there was steak chips and salad and was superb, we can also recommend the pizza.

The prices are a bit 'european' and there is much cheaper food to be found out and about but not of the same quality. 

We wouldn't usually be so appreciative of restaurant food but after 20 days at sea!!! 

We also used the laundry as a treat - not cheap. Back to hand washing now.

Other services include diesel delivery, taxi calling, help with checking in at customs, police and port Captain.

These services are a great help but don't expect anything for nothing, there is usually a charge.

The clientele are mostly French with a smattering of other nationalities. 

Jacare Village Marina

Caipirinha's with Phillipe and Imelda

Although we moved from Jacare Village Marine we are still welcome as long as we are spending of course. The safest place to leave your boat if you are flying home or touring South America by land.

The heat here in March/April is in the mid 30's and the lack of breeze didn't help. Time to use our Air Conditioning. It worked for half an hour then conked out. Our fridge was also playing up.

We cleaned everything we could think of on the air con, water intake filter, radiator fan etc.. 

No better.

The fridge problem we put down to the refrigerant having not settled after being shook up, so much en route. So we switched it off for a couple of days to see if it would make any difference. Nope.

Also the pontoon junction box tripped when we tried to heat water. Boiling a kettle was ok though.

Some of our neighbours suggested that the pontoon electricity was not very powerful.

We then met South African Alan Ward and his pal Phillipe S/V Windward. He was on the next pontoon along and told us that his electricity was good, got wifi on the boat, rates reasonable, why don't we move?

We enquired and the monthly rate worked out at about 10 euros/night.

We moved to Peter's Pier (Nautico Centro Jacare) after a week and the air con works perfect. The fridge is fine which I can't really explain as its 12 volt but maybe our vintage battery charger wasn't doing so well with reduced voltage and the wifi is very good.

The cons of our move are: toilets/showers and pontoon water supply only in business hours 7.30 - 5.30 closed Monday and security cameras (not a physical guard like Jacare Village Marina has on a night). Not too bad.

Peter's Pier

Alison was delighted to see cows

'Merci's' ensign looks superb - next time we must remember to get 100/50 ratio as it still looks a bit too square.

A plus apart from those already mentioned is that we can buy a bag of ice from the marina office and use about a third of it for our new favourite evening drink 'Caipirinha' and store the rest in their freezer.

One problem we did have was that while Jacare Village Marina has 24hr security, the cameras and guard dog at our present location became ineffective during a blackout power cut and an opportunist thief wrenched the fishing rod from our push pit handrail, breaking the holder and had away with it.

We heard something at the back of the boat and as I peered from the companionway the thief was making his getaway into the darkness. I didn't fancy giving chase in the pitch black.

It had crossed my mind to put it down below but didn't bother! Tut!

Oh well, never used it anyway. I put an extra chain on the outboard engine for peace of mind.

We like it here, a lot of things are super cheap, especially public transport and the Brazilian people we have met here are friendly and kind. This part of the country is not exactly a tourist destination for foreigners so a lot of people stare, unsurprisingly as we look very Northern European.

Atlantic Crossing - Part 2

Day 12  Beautiful day. The sea is like a pond with only 2 knots of wind rippling the surface. E.T.A. for the equator is 4pm approximately. We have 200 liters of fuel left. Coolant and stern gland checked. At 4:46pm we crossed the equator under engine. We had champagne but preferred a glass of red wine each, pouring some into the ocean we toasted Neptune. We then messed around with the sails however there was not enough wind. We could see squalls in the distance.

Pretty calm

Cheers

Just over the equator - isailor app.

Day 13  The wind had picked up and we were close hauled traveling at 4-5 knots with a double reefed main and a full jib which we reduced midday as squalls were imminent. This was an uncomfortable sail while it lasted, we put the engine on for the evening then off again around midnight - jib back out.

Day 14 We were close hauled again, not comfortable but 'Doc' liked it, 5 knots. At 11:15 am the biggest squall ever, toe rail was almost submerged so we altered course to broad reach until it passed, then back on course. No wind. Engine on, off again a couple of hours later - broad reach. We checked the engine oil, gearbox oil and stern gland. The engine was on then off. During the evening it was very squally, the night was black with zero visibility, wind on nose, not fun - raining constantly.

Day 15 It was still raining, very grey and miserable, both weather and crew. They should have been fuel in the tank but it had read empty so we syphoned some more from our jerry cans. The engine was back on again in the afternoon but by the evening there was 30 kts of wind. This was a squally night with plenty of thunder and lightening but we were glad of the wind as we were getting worried about our dwindling diesel supplies. A bird hitched a ride with us overnight, leaving us in the morning.

Passing tanker 'Hector' - we think it said Liverpool on the back - must get some better binoculars - we fancy a telescope/monoscope 

Day 16 The morning had been great with the wind steady and giving us an easy 5 kts. We had collected some rainwater overnight in a large bucket and Alison washed & conditioned her hair with it.'Bliss' she said. We were a bit (lot) bored with our menu onboard so decided to make pancakes for lunch.....yummy! At 5pm a squall hit us, no problem......then another, except it wasn't a squall but a weather front. It hit us with such force that it broke our Jib Roller Furler.....we couldn't roll it in! Items had been thrown around our cabin and even a light fitting had shook loose. We had no option but to run with the wind (wind behind us). After a few hours of heading in the wrong direction, we decided to heave to. This was not too comfortable with a full jib and the bow into the building sea, however it gave us time to assess damage and think......... Then the bilge pump started to operate! We pulled up the floor boards to see water lapping into the bilge. I fetched a hand pump to give the electric one some help. Water was coming in but from where? We checked all the sea cocks and thru hulls...all dry. The only conclusion was the water came in when the bow dunks itself into the waves???

Hove to

Action stations all hands to the pumps.

Day 17 Come daylight we managed to inspect the roller furler and Alison managed to do a partial repair whilst sitting in the anchor locker which enable us to roll most of the jib in....phew! Started to sail again and we were back on course and no more water coming. We were still wary of the weather, wondering how long the big winds were going to last. The interior of Artemis was a bit of a mess after the night before so we had a good tidy up. We were a bit tired but we had a good sail during the night.

Day 18 The wind had abated and to make headway against the strong swell and current in this part of the Atlantic (Guiana Current) we needed the jib out which did the trick. Yes you've guessed it....the wind increased dramatically and we couldn't roll the jib in, it was stuck tight. Our only alternative was to     take the sail down. Not simple. The bolt rope guide sections had become mis-aligned and the sail was stuck mid way. After an hour of pulling and shaking, and the use of our boarding step on the foredeck we eventually got it down and dragged it down the fore hatch. We were now off course, close hauled under mainsail alone...not happy! The wind died and we motored for 23 hours.

Day 19 The ocean waves and swell have never been big but have a heavy handed power as if the water carries more density than normal.

We were worried about our diesel supplies so we switched the engine off and searched for our storm sail. We had never used this sail before and we threaded it up. We shook the reefs out of the mainsail and started to make slow but steady headway. We put our remaining can of diesel, including all the dregs, filtering into the tank.

Storm jib in action.

We saw the Brazilian coast but didn't want to arrive too soon as it was not recommended to go up the Paraiba river in the dark. We got close in the night and had to tack out to fill in the time. Unfortunately the GPS showed us to be going backwards so about turn again at dawn. When we deemed ourselves in range we started the engine, took the sails in and plied our way up the river, past Cabedelo where cargo ships unloaded and followed Jacare Marinas waypoints to our destination. (Waypoints are on their website but of course any red or green buoys take priority). On the way powerboats and jet skis roared past us and we saw butterflies and small crazy tropical birds (like a Walt Disney cartoon). Radioing ahead got no response (Sunday) so we identified a free space on the outer pontoons in case of draught issues and with the help of neighboring yachties berthed Artemis after 20 days at sea. First job - COLD BEER !

Brazil is there, somewhere.

Not far to go now.