Arrecife

After a couple of nights at Rubicon we made for the new marina at Arrecife "Marina Lanzarote" to get the engine repaired. The same marina we had read about on Noonsite but couldn't find on the way down. Marina Lanzarote was a bit of a building site when we arrived. We didn't mind as it was cheaper than the others and fairly near the supermarkets, chandlers and everything else a capital should have, even IKEA.

Our youngest son Gene and my mum and dad flew out for a week to visit us. It was great to see them and spent our time with trips out and dining together every night. It was the first time they had seen "Artemis". I hope they were impressed.

Noteable neighbors are John & Sabine aboard "Chevaldy". Talkative and generous they make good pals. John showed me how to make bread and they are a mine of information for pennypinchers like ourselves.

Diego, Alison, John, Sabine

The marina has officially opened now and there was an all weekend celebration with live music and fireworks. 

Sabine, John, Tanya (Marina Reception) and friend, Alison. 

We have had a new fuel pump fitted and a full service. The mechanic was very good and made sure we had spare filters, impellers etc... for our planned Atlantic crossing after Christmas.

Puerto Calero

Puerto Calero is a very nice, upmarket marina with good fingerberth pontoons, boatyard, restaurants, cafes and designer shops. Great for a holiday but not for liveaboards like us as our shopping list of spare parts/consumables drew a blank. A Lacoste t-shirt?  No need. 

Shiney

Enter Jimmy Macintyre aboard 'Akkita' whom we met whilst having breakfast in a cafe. Jimmy is a very, very sociable Scotsman and offered to take us shopping in his car. The next day he rolled up in a very flash Mercedes convertible and together we visited supermarkets, chandlers and a couple of 'must' eateries. Thanks Jim.
We stayed a weekand then headed down the coast for some free parking at Papagayo, a local beauty spot.  

We stayed for one night but it was a bit rolly to stay any longer.  A part of the beach we were anchored off was popular with nudists. "You're not getting out the binoculars? "-"Yes l am" - wish I hadn't!!!!
Next stop Rubicon Marina,  even posher than the last one.  We had arranged to meet up with friends from our winter in France.  Frank and Dagmar from Germany were there and we were keen to catch up with them after so long.  

Frank and Dagmar 'High Flight'

Rubicon Marina even hasa swimming pool -Luxury!
After a few days (it's rather expensive) we made the hour sail to Isle De Lobos just off Fuertaventura.  Good holding in sand, just off a natural lagoon.  We enjoyed swimming /snorkeling in the crystal clear water. 

Miles hugging a fender on a rope. The current can be quite strong. 
We love to be at anchor as its like being on your own little island(your boat).  Where as in a marina you always have the feeling of being a guest at somebodys establishment.
Isla de Lobos is a very popular tourist attraction for holidaymakers at Carilejo on mainland Fuertaventura and ferries visit many times a day.
After a couple of days we took the dinghy to the island and hopped on the ferry to Caralejo to stock up on fresh food. Whilst there we grabbed some internet at a cafe and visited a ferreteria to get some rope to replace the frayed roller furling jib line we had spotted the day before. Great price!
The next night aboard was a bit swelly. That was a sign to leave, but we didn't. The next night the wind got up and we saw a lightening storm pass by (unforcastes by the way)
After going to bed, the next thing I knew was Alison waking me up.
"I think all of the other yachts have gone on the mooring bouys"
"What! We must be the ones that have moved".
And we had. We had dragged anchor and were halfway to the mainland.
We had stopped drifting so we waited vigilently until daylight to lift the anchor.
The engine wouldn't start! I suspected that it would be the diesel leak on the fuel pump that was temporarily fixed in Portugal. It was!
Concidering that we had sailed all of the way from Portugal to Lanzarote without using the engine I think that the Yanmar mechanic did us a disservice as the repair hadn't lasted. I had asked him if he would come back the next day to do a permanent repair but he wasn't interested just saying 'next service'
After a bit of fiddling with the hose/connections the engine started.
The anchor was fouled rotten.  The chain was wrapped around and around it so that it couldn't function.

  We could have drifted onto the reef,  we were lucky.  We have an anchor alarm but stopped using it after a couple of nights because we thought the anchor was rock solid. We could see it well bedded into the sand.
Shaken and stirred we went back to Rubicon and safety.

On the way back we heard a toot. Where did that come from? Looking behind us a ferry had just left Caralejo. We got out of the way pronto. 

The Portuguese coast and on to Lanzarote 2014

We stayed a week to take advantage of the weekly rate.

The closed street market stalls eventually opened after a few days - all part of a book festival with classical music for ambience. This was a total contrast to the Spanish Fiestas we had previously witnessed.

We were ready to leave after the week was up... Next stop Pavoa do Varzim (1/2 day sail).

Leaving Viana, a French yacht cast off at the same time. He put his sails up in the river ( haven't got the confidence to do thet our selves) and soon disappeared over the horizon. We have room for much improvement it seams.

Povoa do Vazim

Pavoa was very interesting. A popular Portuguese holiday resort for families and the retired. The marina was very cheap but has the best showers yet! Negatives were the abundance of sea gulls and the fog horn (read air raid siren) which seemed to go off every night, all night as did the church bells.

We met up again with 'Shuma'. It was nice to meet up again and have a chat.

Douro Marina

We were finally able to fill up with diesel. Not wildly available on the Portuguese west coast. This was a very plush marina and Nuno was the best 'marinho' we have come across. He ecen told me off for going the wrong side of a buoy. If you visit Duoro Marina yourself be very careful as the water has very shallow patches at low tide and it's important to keep in the channel until you are level with the marina and fuel pontoon (take a sharp right).

Figuera de Foz

Up the river again and the current in the marina was deceiving. We and a few other boats were drifting while trying to maneuver - still we managed!

Here we met Nigel aboard 'Sea Brigand' together with his crew. Delivery skipper Steve ( from our neck of the woods) and crewman Paul. We had a very fluent get together one night - conversation and the booze ( eh Steve!)

Hitch hiking Dragon Fly

Nazare

Trying to steer between the breakwaters was like wrestling with a bull ( wish I'd took a video). This entrance was so rough!!!!

Once moored up we found a run down marina that had seen better days. The office was closed so I had to go and see the security guard. He was not best pleased to have another job to do (booking us in). However as with the Portuguese, after initial protests he was ok, thankfully.

Cascais

We arrived at Cascais at 12:30am and stayed on the reception pontoon until later that morning. We were made very welcome and enjoyed our stay.

We visited the Museum Condes De Castro and walked the gardens.

When we departed we were not charged for the first night on the visitors pontoon. BONUS !

Sines

A small town surrounded by industry. However from th town and marina you can't see it. Beautiful marina building but marina very windy.

Used the Asemetric Spinnaker, with success, on the way. 

On the beach

Lagos

We had to round Cape Vincent on route and boy did we get a shock!!! The wind (due to the Nortada) gusted up to 36 knots. With a tiny handkerchief of jib we made good headway but it was difficult heading into land. Phew!

Up a river again! Very busy!

Great English breakfast (1st in a year) and a pot of PG Tips, lovely!

Managed to source some decent tea. 

You can eat out like a Prince or buy great ingredients cheaply and eat in like a King. Steak is cheaper than chicken here. 

There was a lot of holiday makers tramping around the marina and numerous boat trips leaving and arriving every couple of hours.

Heading out was a bit of a nightmare - lots of boats and we had to wait a long time to fuel up as many local boats were piling up at the pumps.

Fuel pontoon Mele. 

Portimao

Just 6 Miles along the coast we anchored for the first time overnight. Loved it apart from the rave music blasting out all night. We stayed 10 days. FREE PARKING

We met up again with Nick and Jay aboard 'Bonventure'. Nick came aboard and helped us anchor as we were having difficulty as they were so many yachts there. Thank you Nick!

Nick and Jay threading a chain through a hosepipe for us. Cos we couldn't. 

Madeira 

We set out for Madeira, out of a calm bay to be hit with the strong wind of Cape Vincent and then the lumpy sea.

The shipping lane was busy and we had take avoiding action on a couple of occasions. 

After 8 hours we had had enough of the unpredictable beam sea (waves hitting the hull on the side) so we had to choose whether to continue, go back or change course. We changed course and headed south to Lanzarote. The ride was better with the sea behind and it was only 50 miles further. It was a new moon so we didn't expect much night time illumination but at the time of writing, we have a half moon and the stupid thing is out only a couple of hours at night but visible during the day. Pitts. We had difficulty sleeping because of the motion. This type of sea we had we called the 'washing machine' as it's rolly and pitchy at the same time. It makes doing anything very difficult.

At last after 4 1/2 days we sited land and anchored at the first opportunity-to get a good nights sleep. In the sheltered harbor of Arricife we were moving around like drunkards. The boat was in calm waters however we were not used to this. 

The next morning we moored in Puerto Calera Marina to set about shopping, fixing and cleaning.

"In and out the dusty bluebells"

We had read the warnings that the Portuguese waters have many lobster pots. They weren't wrong. They are numerous and difficult to spot, even in broad daylight. We must have altered course at least a dozen times that day, they just kept on coming.

Lots of pots

Entering The Viana channel (Rio Lima) the wind and tide was very strong. We moored onto the waiting pontoon on the outside of the marina entrance. Antonio from the marina welcomed us and informed us there was a finger pontoon available inside the marina. Alison looked at the current and wasn't keen. The current can run at about 7 knots and the entrance is quite narrow with a swing bridge. I wanted to enter the marina as it looked very sheltered so Alison said ok and let's have a go. Simples it was straightforward getting in and was very sheltered. Good prices, wifi available in most bars/ cafés.

Swing footbridge

Road/rail bridge designed by Eiffel

Flowers overhead in the charming streets

Heading South

IIt was difficult to leave Muros and we consider Pedro (The face of Muros Marina) a real friend!

Downwind to Sanxenxo we tried out our planned techniques. The poled (boom) out jib worked a treat. The A- symmetric spinnaker not so well. A bit more tweaking needed there.

Sanxenxo is a big marina full of "Gin Palaces" but a convenient stop to watch the World Cup Final. Not much atmosphere for the match as the Spanish had lost interest after they got knocked out.  A lot of the bars looked closed near the marina. Later we found out they opened at midnight and boomed out music till dawn hmmmmmmmmm!

Sanxenxo

Baiona

The next day we made the short hop to Baiona. The wind was all over the place and the sea got choppy between the islands. We moored at the MRCY marina as it was in a beautiful setting beneath the old defensive walls. Just stayed the night as this marina was expensive.

Next morning we headed for Viana Do Castelo. Alison had checked the forecasts for today and the wind was to be behind us again - more downwind practice. Well no! The wind blew in the complete opposite direction all day. Engine on!

Afternoon came and I popped below for a siesta. 20 minutes later Alison calls "Miles, FOG!" Yes a real pea Souper that was coming off the land so we decided to change course and head out to sea. We could sail at this angle so we put up the sails. After all the winching and tweaking we looked up, Fog gone, wind gone, speed 2.8 kn. Pah!      Sails down engine on back on course.

Magnificent Muros Marina

This is more like it! A must to visit. A new marina that is not in the pilot books yet. Helpful and friendly staff, Pedro & James. Facilities are all that you could want. Garden area, library, power showers and wifi room in this converted ex Police Station.

It is very easy to live here. The supermarket is a hop, skip and a jump away, opposite a beach,a couple  of good hardware shops, 2 tobacconists, bars, cafés and restaurants, and a market twice a week. We liked it so much we stayed a month.

Alison with Pedro

Floral carpets through the streets

The Marina's private garden where we enjoyed many internet mornings. 

The fireworks were spectacular

Muros got very noisy come fiesta time, but hey Spain like to party!!!!!!

While we were there I ordered the autopilot parts we needed off eBay. It's fixed now and ready for a sea trial. Also the toilet packed in but a service kit was ordered and is now back in action to the relief of Alison!

A Caruna

The night we arrived we walked into town - the main reason was that we had ran out of tobacco. The streets were alive with football fans. The local team had won and they were jubillant. Tables were booked in resruarants and they were having a great time.

The next morning some were still staggering about as we found a convenience store for some provisions. Spain is mainly closed on a Sunday - like Britain 30 years ago.

A Caruna and Northern Spain were not what I was expecting. The streets weren't  paved with Paella, no chickens roasting outside, no never ending Tapas. Had we come to the right country?

This was real Spain and not the tourist destinations of our Jollies. The locals were busy going about their business, earning a crust etc..  Outside of the marina not many people spoke English. Compared to France the average bodyweight was up a few stone probably something to do with the smell of deep fat frying that abound.

our autopilotwas on the blink again so we tried to phone the A Coruna Raymarine shop - number not connecting - took a bus to the other side of town to pay them a visit, didn't get off at the right stop due to the bus station not looking like a bus station. So we had an unplanned tour of the city and got off at the right stop next time around.

Asked a local for directions - down and out of the back of the building - Jobsworth wouldn't let us out where the buses came in - Alison has a bad knee - had to retrace steps and walk around.

   Went somewhere for lunch. Played it safe and pointed to a tasty looking picture in the window, not available till evening, got a burger that wasn't a burger. Eventually found th Raymarine shop. English spoken and very helpful but no parts in stock but could be ordered and our problem was probably the gearbox - Good advice I think.

     After a week of inclement weather the two German yachts we had crossed Biscay with were ready to leave on a good forecast so we tagged along.

At A Caruna we weren't best pleased with the boat being covered in coal dust and the strong smell of butane gas ( I thought we had a leak ) from unloading cargo ships upwind.

   If you visit marina Caruna ask for the free discount passport that covers other marinas in the chain but is not freely offered. Why?

'Mira' the yacht berthed next to us and heading north told us about Muros Marina around the coast that they were very impressed with.

    We rounded the Cote du Morte ( Coast of Death ) with no problems and fair seas. Spent the night at Camarinas and set off again early the next morning for Muros.