Isle du Salut (Devils Island)

We knew that our timing wasn't good, there was a 'Rocket Launch' scheduled from Kourou the next day. We heard on the VHF and the Coast Guard came alongside to inform us, very nicely, that we would have to sail 4 miles north or go to Kourou as we were in the exclusion zone. We opted to go the 4 miles north and we needed to leave before midday. Off we went, only to find that the launch had been cancelled due to a technical problem. We arrived back to the anchorage well after dark.

The next day, the same again however the rocket launched and we took photos and a video. The sound was the most exciting. This time though, as soon as the rocket was out of sight we headed back to the anchorage just before dark. My reasoning....when a penalty is taken, the moment the ball is kicked, the players on the outside of the box are allowed to approach the goal!!

Rocket launch

The next day we visited Isle Royale (largest Island) and had a look around the old French prison colony. Very interesting! We thought that a French prison would be quite cushy, but no, it was very very harsh regime indeed. I was shocked that the French would treat their own countrymen so cruelly, especially after the revolution.

Isle Royale

Isle Royale

The anchorage is beautiful. Sitting quietly on Artemis of an evening, the sound of the monkeys and other wildlife on the island, coupled with the islands' generator going on & off and the sound of our very own fridge, we were very much reminded of the 'Lost' tv series.

Coconut Bay

Artemis & Awelina of Sweden at anchor

There was a hotel and restaurant, no shop or supply of potable water on the islands. We had a visit from Tony, a tour boat operator whilst his customers were exploring the island. Nice guy! He offered to bring us supplies from the mainland if we needed anything. Next morning, a baguette, cheese, eggs and a bottle of wine were waiting for us. Thanks Tony!

At anchor was a South African couple we had met in Brazil and a English couple, James & Fiona S/V Awelina of Sweden, whom we had met previously in Cape Verde. We had arranged to go over for a drink a day or so later but the weather turned squally. We called over that we would take a rain check. Glad we did as the wind and sea state increased dramatically. Yachts were dragging anchor and changing position to get in the lee of Isle St. Joseph. A large freighter came to shelter behind the islands...our new neighbor. We kept watch that night but our anchor never shifted. In the morning things were no better and Awelina motored by to tell us they were going up river to Kourou. We decided to follow suit and quickly weighed anchor to get there before the tide changed. We just made it!

Freight vessel (our neighbor)

Awelina in Kourou

The river anchorage gave very good holding and water was easy to get from the local pontoon.

James & Fiona hired a car and we had a couple of days out visiting Cayenne as well as shopping for supplies and spares.

Kourou had plenty of shops (mostly Chinese) but also the French favorite, Super U supermarket (ours as well).

Cayenne view from the fort

After nearly 2 weeks on the river, in calmer weather, we headed back to the Isle du Salut to continue our exploring and wait for wind to continue our journey. We explored Isle St. Joseph and viewed Isle du Diable from there as it is quite inaccessible. They had previously been a cable car arrangement from Isle Royale years ago, but no more. It is said that the dead bodies of prisoners were fed to the Sharks. Tony said it was ok to swim as the Sharks wouldn't be interested in us. We did but stayed close to the boat.

Cemetery St. Joseph for staff not prisoners

The Prison corridor 

Alison in a prison cell...no roof only bars!

View of Isle du Diable

Jacare, Brazil to Devils Island, French Guiana

We left Jacare on 20/9/16, destination...The Isles du Salut, the former French prison colony, more commonly known as Devils Island.

The first day sailing went very well although the sun and heat was relentless. We poured buckets of sea water over ourselves in hope to cool down. The sea took a ugly turn by nightfall and neither of us got much sleep.

On day 3 we crossed over 2 sea mountains. Others we had spoken to had said said they would definitely avoid them. We took a direct route which meant we went over them and couldn't tell any difference in the sea state. During the night Alison got tipped out of her bunk onto the floor but we were well past them by then....maybe there was a delayed effect...who knows?

Alison on the floor!

The wind rose the next night and in the morning we noticed a tear in our mainsail. The sea was 2 meters and we decided to leave it up.

Tear in the mainsail

Day 7 and the wind reduced. We were doing 7 knots at the start of our journey, then 6 knots, then 5 knots and now 4 knots. We tried a bit of fishing and after about 5 minutes I caught our first ever fish. Alison cleaned it and I cooked it for supper.

First fish

The next few days/nights were a mixed bag of different wind strengths and sea conditions, until day 10 when we hit the doldrums. The sea was like rippled silk and we could see many fish in the clear water. No wind but we still moved around 3 knots with the strong current. We had a magical day...Alison had a short swim. We ate our lunch (drop scones) sat on the sugar scoop under our solar panel and watched the fish clean our hull. When night fell, the sea was lit up with flashing/pulsating lights as we travelled through a field of glowing squid/jellyfish, not sure however it was incredible. A small bird hitched a ride with us..Alison named it 'Mabel'.

Doldrums

Alison having a dip

Fish cleaning our hull

The wind returned the next day, however the sea was not kind and no matter what we did with the sails, we couldn't get a comfortable ride. The day before we arrived to our destination (day 12), Alison wrote in our log..'feel like we've been in a tumble drier for 8 hours!'

On day 13 we arrive in Coconut Bay, Isle du Salut at dawn. We anchored in 6 meters using 30 meters of chain...a first for our new 'Bugle' anchor!

Isles du Salut

Photo Shoot

One day we were asked by a bikini manufacturer if they could use Artemis as a set. 'Yes' we said ( It will make us/the boat look good on Facebook we thought). We expected a couple of bikini changes with an hour or two for photos. No this was serious! They had hired a International model, Analise Rufine....gorgeous, a photographer and crew, lighting and make-up. They showed us last years catalogue that was extensive. All day we had the shoot, at least 20 bikinis/swimsuit changes and a good time. It was a pleasure to host them and Artemis looked great in the pics....the model, not bad either😉

For the ladies...haha!

As a thank you, Alison was given a bikini of her choice as well as a beach cover up. We also got a copy of the completed catalogue before we sailed. Interesting for visitors onboard 'Artemis' maybe?!

News Moda make and sell beachwear worldwide....if your interested, get in touch.

This is the style of bikini Alison chose...nice eh!?

Recife and Yngwie Malmsteen

Another reason for getting a visa extension is that we knew our favourite guitarist Yngwie (pronounced 'Ingvay') Malmsteen was touring South America, with shows in Brazil coming up. Not a concert as such but a guitar show/ask questions/clinic type of thing. 

Recife was the nearest venue so we set about trying to get tickets, arrange transport and book a hotel. Getting the tickets for the show wasn't easy. We could only buy them online, however we required a Brazilian ID/tax number to be allowed to purchase one. After a bit of research, we found out that we could apply for a number at the local Post Office, pay 7 Reals and then get the bus into Joao Pessoas' tax office to get the card proper and then go to the Xerox shop to get it laminated....simples!

The other questions on the online form that we didn't have an answer to, I put in my passport number and hoped for the best. I had to put the Marinas address as it wouldn't accept an overseas address...could be a problem trying to pay with a visa registered to a UK address. Yes it didn't work. Tried another card, no....tried again with the original card...bingo, got the tickets...yippee! Netto the marina manager printed them off. Thanks!

Next up transport. A bus ones every hour from Joao Pessoa Interstate Bus Station and takes 2 hours. We decided to make this an extended break so we found a nice hotel on Lastminute.com and booked for 4 nights. When we were looking for hotels on the internet we found quite a few that were 'No Smoking'. On further investigation it appears that Recife has signed up with the World Health Organisation to basically ban smoking as much as possible...admiral...but not very good when you just want to visit and smoke like a chimney. I also found out that Brazil like Europe, smoking is banned in public places...ok...but walking along the pavement! Yes, banned there too. Thankfully not enforced.

So it was a relief to find the Best Western Mariba Hotel at Pina Beach, Recife that offered smoking rooms...room booked!

I must tell you about the bus ride there. To buy the tickets, we had to show our passports...ok. Pay a little extra because they were running the 'Executive' coach at the time we wanted to depart. Whilst waiting for the bus I thought I better visit the toilet and force myself to pee. When I stood at the urinal a young man a few feet away kept looking round and staring....I couldn't go! No problem I'll go back in 10 minutes. On my return there is the same guy stood there pretending to pee and as I walk in through the door, stares me right in the face. Bloody rent boy! I pop into a stall and lock the door, peed in peace and made a swift exit.

To board the bus you have to go through a turnstile courtesy of a security guard using your barcoded ticket. Next, give your luggage to a guy who applies a sticker, loads into the luggage compartment and then puts the counterpart on your ticket. He then pulls up a wheeled lectern next to the bus' steps, we stand in line for our turn and he then checks our tickets and our passports. Then we board the bus....sorry 'Executive Coach'...very comfortable it is to! The driver (same guy) gives us a pre journey talk just like being on a plane. We couldn't understand a word but it looked a though he was informing us of the emergency exits and how to open the security door between us passengers and the driver/exit. What a palaver, but quite nice! Also at the station and at various stops, hawkers are allowed onboard to sell fruit, water and various snacks. We were fully prepared with packed lunches and drinks.

Recifes' Interstate Bus Station is incredibly far from the city. Rather than spend the whole day traveling, we took a taxi to our hotel. Yes we could smoke in our room (would rather have had a balcony) and there was coffee/tea making facilities we weren't expecting. Lovely room, lovely clean hotel.

The prices are more European in Recife and although we looked around 2 huge shopping centers, we didn't buy much. It made us appreciate the cheapness of our local stores.

View from our hotel

View from shopping mall

One day we walked to the harbour to see the yacht clubs as we would have liked to arrive on Artemis. However being south from Jacare the current and wind would be against us. The harbor looked windswept and the waves were spraying over the harbour wall. Also the area we had walked through to get there, looked well dodgy so we took a taxi back to our hotel.

On the night of the guitar show we took a taxi to the Teatro do IMIP, a media Centre within the hospital. We knew we had found the right place by a queue of denim and black shirted Brazilians, some carrying guitars. Doors open at 4pm, show starts at 4:30pm. No chance....the flight carrying Yngwie Malmsteen had been delayed...we'd have to wait. We got chatting to some guys who spoke English to pass the time. One young man phoned his girlfriend whilst we were talking and we said hello. She burst into tears of happiness as it was one of her ambitions to speak English to an English person...wow! Anyway after waiting for 3 1/2 hours we were finally allowed into the auditorium. On the stage were 4 Fender Malmsteen guitars, his pedal board and quite a few of his Marshall signature heads and cabs. Everyone is taking photos! A bearded guy introduces the man himself and Malmsteen plays through an instrumental with a backing track. He talks a little, answers some questions, plays a number and this goes on for an all too brief 40 mins. Goodbye and he's off! Some of the questions were rediculous....

"Can I have a guitar pick?"

"Will you sign my guitar?"

"When are you releasing a new album?"......asked twice. He had just released the album 'World on Fire" the previous month.

Malmsteen himself was super cool throughout and looked a lot better than I expected. He made the guitar playing look effortless (of course). And the best reply to a question to a guy who said he played guitar like Malmsteen..."Oh great, I'm feeling a bit ill, you can do tomorrow nights show!" Excellent!!!

Waiting!

More waiting!

Fenders

Malmsteen

Rigging adjustment & Dingy refurb

Crossing the Atlantic we had noticed that our lower standing rigging was on the loose side. We asked Brian to check and adjust it for us. Unfortunately he was called away to repair a marina pontoon (his speciality) in Recife and would be away for a number of weeks. Then Bill arrives on his catamaran, a cruising sail repairer who set up shop on the table tennis table in Jacare Village Marina. On asking he came straight over and started work, first freeing off (they were a bit (lot) seized) our adjusters, then tensioning and checking, tensioning and checking....job done. 

Miles & Bill

Our lazy lifestyle hadn't kept our boat very clean so we set to work for the next couple of weeks, scrubbing,cleaning, tidying the interior, deck and top sides. The serious amount of work required to clean the weed and shellfish from our hull bottoms was given to local, Mr Do-it-all, 'Rambo'. He came recommended and did an excellent job. Not many boats here relish cleaning their own hull bottoms as the river water is dark, solidly and organic...full of life, l suppose! That's why the weed grows so prolifically, no anti foul works here and most of the local power boats are stored on land and only launched when being used.

Rambo

Artemis' clean waterline

For our future cruising grounds we are going to need our dingy. We had a look at it and decided that it could do with a refurb. First we sourced some replacement wooden slats from Juliano ( his speciality is steelwork) who lives/works next door to Jacare Village Marina. He got us some reclaimed hardwood planking and cut it to size...brill!

We bought some sandpaper, paint brushes and exterior gloss 

Alison painting

Painted wooden slats

Sail repair and visa extension

Moored off our pontoon was Christoff, a German sail repairer and dingy maker who has a workshop in the village. We got him to repair our spare mainsail that was damaged crossing Biscay, 2 years ago. He did a very thorough job.

Miles & Christoff

Beautiful handmade table

One of Christoffs dingies

Our 3 month visa was nearly up but we were not ready to leave as we needed to get motivated to prepare the boat. After slipping into the Brazilian 'manhana', take your time attitude but it still drove us nuts. How long we had to wait to get served at the local mini market shop..it had a suprisingly good selection of food especially when you ventured into the back where the fruit/veg and freezers are and of course 20 cigarettes for 3 real (about 60p). Solution - we extended our visa for another 3 months...sorted!

Yellow Fever Vaccination

We decided to get our Yellow Fever Vaccination whilst in Brazil, as we needed proof of one when we travel north. Peter & Netto at the marina got us an address in Cabedelo, a short train ride away, to get the jab. The Innoculation Centre had no street number so we started asking directions when we couldn't find it. After an hour of being sent pillar to post, we found the place.

Netto & Peter (Peters Pier)

Unfortunately they only supplied the vaccine, not administing it. Enter Laurita who spoke some English. She took us and the vaccine (in cool box) to a local Medical Centre in her car. She spoke to the doctor and hey presto we got the jab free of charge and back to the Distribution Centre we were given a slip of paper to prove it. Looks good eh?

Back at the marina we tell Peter that we were successful. "So you got the Yellow Certificate ?" he says. "No, white" we replied

"Let's have a look at it"......"Ah, you have had the swine flu vaccine, very difficult to get here, how did you manage that?"

"Hmm....communication problem!" we replied.

Well, we had Laurita as a friend on Facebook, so we told her our dilemma.

We met her again at the Distribution Centre and she took us to another Medical Centre. Unfortunately we were too late for the morning session. Back after lunch we were asked lots of questions which were inputted into a PC. We at last get the correct vaccination. For some reason we cannot get the yellow certificate but information is added to our slip of paper and stamped and Laurita will collect the correct certificate at a later date and visit us on Artemis.

Weeks pass and no Laurita.....she's on holiday, so we decide to sort this out ourselves and return to the clinic. 'Porto' they said so we headed to the Port and we are directed to Envisa who supply the certificates. No can do....the computers are down and we are instructed to go to Joao Pessoa Airport. Jeez!!! We call in to see Silvio in Customs to say hello whilst we are there. When he asks, what brings us this way, we tell him. Silvio is straight on the telephone to Envisa. One of the Envisa guys comes to his office and after a long discussion we return back with him. The certificates are filled out by hand and stamped instead of computer printed.....thank you Silvio!

This hopping about on the trains is great, but doesn't always go to plan. Sometimes trains are cancelled and we have to hike to the bus stop. For a few weeks no trains were running into Joao Pessoa due to rail repairs and other times we missed the train by a few minutes and the next one is in 1 1/2 hours. Then the train times were changed so our printed timetable was useless...super cheap though.