Jacare, Brazil to Devils Island, French Guiana

We left Jacare on 20/9/16, destination...The Isles du Salut, the former French prison colony, more commonly known as Devils Island.

The first day sailing went very well although the sun and heat was relentless. We poured buckets of sea water over ourselves in hope to cool down. The sea took a ugly turn by nightfall and neither of us got much sleep.

On day 3 we crossed over 2 sea mountains. Others we had spoken to had said said they would definitely avoid them. We took a direct route which meant we went over them and couldn't tell any difference in the sea state. During the night Alison got tipped out of her bunk onto the floor but we were well past them by then....maybe there was a delayed effect...who knows?

Alison on the floor!

The wind rose the next night and in the morning we noticed a tear in our mainsail. The sea was 2 meters and we decided to leave it up.

Tear in the mainsail

Day 7 and the wind reduced. We were doing 7 knots at the start of our journey, then 6 knots, then 5 knots and now 4 knots. We tried a bit of fishing and after about 5 minutes I caught our first ever fish. Alison cleaned it and I cooked it for supper.

First fish

The next few days/nights were a mixed bag of different wind strengths and sea conditions, until day 10 when we hit the doldrums. The sea was like rippled silk and we could see many fish in the clear water. No wind but we still moved around 3 knots with the strong current. We had a magical day...Alison had a short swim. We ate our lunch (drop scones) sat on the sugar scoop under our solar panel and watched the fish clean our hull. When night fell, the sea was lit up with flashing/pulsating lights as we travelled through a field of glowing squid/jellyfish, not sure however it was incredible. A small bird hitched a ride with us..Alison named it 'Mabel'.

Doldrums

Alison having a dip

Fish cleaning our hull

The wind returned the next day, however the sea was not kind and no matter what we did with the sails, we couldn't get a comfortable ride. The day before we arrived to our destination (day 12), Alison wrote in our log..'feel like we've been in a tumble drier for 8 hours!'

On day 13 we arrive in Coconut Bay, Isle du Salut at dawn. We anchored in 6 meters using 30 meters of chain...a first for our new 'Bugle' anchor!

Isles du Salut

Gone fishing

Another area we wanted some experience in, is sea fishing. Catching your own dinner for free, appeals to us. We both adore sea food. 

We booked on Sunday and went out of Whitby today on the 'Tina Dawn'. 

The forecast was good. The best day of the week. 

There was only 2 other people on board. Apart from the Skipper and his mate. A father and his teenage daughter who had booked on impulse the day before. We chatted as the boat got underway. They were from York and I thought it was nice a father and daughter were doing such a thing. " quality time' I said nodding. 

     Once out of Whitby the sea was rough and a cold blow made us glad we had come prepared with warm coats and hats. 

    After about 30 mins motoring the fish finder er.. Found some fish, so it was rods over the side, with the help of the Skipper and mate with some basic tuition. 

The waves were hitting us broadside rocking us about. I think that this was so the boat drifted away from the fishing lines. It made sitting down, a lot safer and less tiring than standing up. 

   We tried 3 different locations, and in between, the sea gulls hovered close to the boat. It would have been easier to catch one of them than a fish. The Skipper caught 2 whiting. The rest of us nothing. 

"Your Dad's better at this than us"

I said to the girl. As he got a bite but the fish escaped just as it reached the surface. 

   There was a larger fishing party that headed out at the same time. After a couple of hours they passed us as they returned to port. 

Our Skipper asked if we had, had enough?  "It just isn't happening". 

We had. 

We returned early, weather beaten, wet, hungry and fish less. 

On paying and hopping ashore the Skipper said it was flat calm yesterday!!!!

He gave Alison and I the 2 fish he had caught as he didn't like to eat fish.

 I've heard that a few times now from nautical folk. 

We decided to go for 'sit in' fish and chips to warm up.

 Very good it was too. "If its good enough for Jeremy Clarkson!"

We talked about our morning and what we had learnt. 

"The other guy with his daughter nearly caught a fish"

said I

"Daughter?"

Exclaimed Alison. 

"She was his girlfriend!"

Oooops. Looks like I put my foot in it again. 

She was half his age mind.

"I wonder if he got her on board for half fare?"

Weather wise - on checking the barometer when we got home it read 1006 - low pressure - which will have accounted for the busy sea. 1013 is neutral pressure and we don't see it get past that very often in this part of the world. 

Will I ever learn?