Worried about friends

Our pals John & Sabine (Chevaldy) had new standing rigging fitted and set off again to cross the Atlantic on Wednesday 17th December. We had the task of sending them weather forecasts every 3 days. They could send us their position via text from their satellite phone and we could text or better still, message for free via the Immarsat website. As well as their position, there were characters left to tell us how they were getting on. Our weather reports were rarely good news, sometimes 20-40kn winds (all over the place) and 4m seas. Sometimes they asked 'when will this sea state and wind abate ?' 'We have a problem with our rudder!'. Only once did our forecasts give steady weather for 3 days running. We used Weathertrack on our iPad. They finally arrived after 26 days, safely at Martinique, we were so relieved!

To say that everything went wrong for them is either accurate or an understatement.

You can read about the full adventure on their 'No holds barred' blog. chevaldy.de.tl/Chevaldy-English.htm

This has made us even more unsure about crossing the pond - until the other day. We were chatting to a French couple, Yves & Bettie, they informed us that a very good time to cross (smaller boats) is March/April as the seas are calmer. Also when Chevaldy arrived, they too were chatting to sailors in Martinique who informed them that it was better to cross March/April time. We had never heard this before, didn't even think it was possible. A revelation. There is hope for us yet! This year or next year?

Miles with John

Marina Lanzarote

We witnessed the start of the 2014 Atlantic Odyssey and followed the website to find out how they fared. All in all they had a pretty rough ride it seems. It's put us off going over the Atlantic this year as the weather and sea conditions are clearly not what we had imagined or been told what is usual. In fact everywhere we have been this year people have said it is a bad year weather wise. 

We were surprised that some yachts/cats were racing towards the start line with 3000 miles to go. I suppose it makes it fun for the competitive. 

John and Sabine aboard 'Chevaldy' heading off to cross the Atlantic on their own. We heard later that they had to motor back to Las Palma marina for repairs as their standing rigging snapped. 

A couple of weeks after our engine repairs another diesel leak started whilst testing the engine. Not entirely unexpected. With help from John and Diego we identified the problem to the injection pump outlets. We got the parts and fixed it ourselves and with some super conscientious fuel line bleeding by John the engine has never sounded better. 

Bread and butter pud made in the pressure cooker. Yum. 

Fuerteventura

It was time to move on from Lanzarote Marina (Arrecife). We had been there nearly 3 months, the friends we had made had moved on and we wanted to be somewhere less commercial.

At 10:15 am December 12th on a good forcast we left in the direction of Fuerteventura, destination Gran Tarajal. Our cruising guide states more of a Harbour with pontoons than a marina. Sounds ideal!

The wind was coming unusually from the south but we figured we could manage close hauled and we did until the current pushed us too far landward. A yacht about a mile in front of us, on a similar course tacked out to seaward and then turned south again to take advantage of the wind angle. It was just what we planned to do. The wind started to become variable near the land. This is what the other yacht must have experienced. We tacked out to sea but we were not making the turn of speed we had seen the other yacht get. The wind died, BLAST! On with the engine, but now we had further to go!

We arrived at Gran Tarajal Marina at 2:15am. What had started as a pleasant sail had developed into an arduous journey(not the first time). The reason being that picking a calmer day, the wind isn't as strong and without a powerful engine it's difficult to maintain a constant speed.

In the first few days we met Pete, Tim & Bee and Robert & Liam and were made to feel truly welcome. These guys are semi retired, on their yachts and think the place is a hidden gem. We are inclined to agree. 

Tim & Bees' Amel was in the boatyard so they came over for Christmas Dinner. We actually found a fresh Turkey in the Hipodino in the town.

Tim and Bee brought with them a huge bottle of vintage French vino. The photo is out of focus but so was everything else after drinking it. 

Mystery guest  Verner (on the right) He brought brandy. 

We entertained again on New Years Eve and on board we had a Dutch couple, 2 French couples, 3 english men and 1 German guy. The Dutch couple Albert & Renata aboard "Lycor" were fab!

When Liam aboard "Warisha" was diving, he noticed our anodes were almost gone and offered to fit new ones for us. When he had difficulty installing them Albert finished the job (it would have helped if I had bought the correct max prop anode first time !) Thanks so much guys!

Albert had fitted out Lycor himself and we were amazed when shown round it. The boat is 'for sale' unless he's already sold it. Lycor is a 'Reike' steel yacht which looks like a battering ram on the surface but once entered looks like the 'starship enterprise'.Wow!!!!

'Lycor'

The winter in the Canaries has been a bit chilly 20 degrees during the day, 12 degrees at night ( the coldest and windiest in 20 yrs so we've been informed). However late January the sun has arrived and we are having great weather - back to the outside jobs. We mounted the Outboard motor and the Barbeque onto the stern rail. Made covers for them along with back rests. Alison also cleaned the hulls waterline.

Our youngest son Gene is flying out to join us as he is in between courses at University and at a loose end. Amazingly we have managed to clear the V berth cabin for him (not a storage room any longer). 

V berth emptied. Now to somehow find a place for everything. 

Did it. 

Other news is that our oldest son Zak and girlfriend Beth have made us grandparents with the birth of Lettie May Lofthouse on the 19 December. We are delighted!

Arrecife

After a couple of nights at Rubicon we made for the new marina at Arrecife "Marina Lanzarote" to get the engine repaired. The same marina we had read about on Noonsite but couldn't find on the way down. Marina Lanzarote was a bit of a building site when we arrived. We didn't mind as it was cheaper than the others and fairly near the supermarkets, chandlers and everything else a capital should have, even IKEA.

Our youngest son Gene and my mum and dad flew out for a week to visit us. It was great to see them and spent our time with trips out and dining together every night. It was the first time they had seen "Artemis". I hope they were impressed.

Noteable neighbors are John & Sabine aboard "Chevaldy". Talkative and generous they make good pals. John showed me how to make bread and they are a mine of information for pennypinchers like ourselves.

Diego, Alison, John, Sabine

The marina has officially opened now and there was an all weekend celebration with live music and fireworks. 

Sabine, John, Tanya (Marina Reception) and friend, Alison. 

We have had a new fuel pump fitted and a full service. The mechanic was very good and made sure we had spare filters, impellers etc... for our planned Atlantic crossing after Christmas.

Puerto Calero

Puerto Calero is a very nice, upmarket marina with good fingerberth pontoons, boatyard, restaurants, cafes and designer shops. Great for a holiday but not for liveaboards like us as our shopping list of spare parts/consumables drew a blank. A Lacoste t-shirt?  No need. 

Shiney

Enter Jimmy Macintyre aboard 'Akkita' whom we met whilst having breakfast in a cafe. Jimmy is a very, very sociable Scotsman and offered to take us shopping in his car. The next day he rolled up in a very flash Mercedes convertible and together we visited supermarkets, chandlers and a couple of 'must' eateries. Thanks Jim.
We stayed a weekand then headed down the coast for some free parking at Papagayo, a local beauty spot.  

We stayed for one night but it was a bit rolly to stay any longer.  A part of the beach we were anchored off was popular with nudists. "You're not getting out the binoculars? "-"Yes l am" - wish I hadn't!!!!
Next stop Rubicon Marina,  even posher than the last one.  We had arranged to meet up with friends from our winter in France.  Frank and Dagmar from Germany were there and we were keen to catch up with them after so long.  

Frank and Dagmar 'High Flight'

Rubicon Marina even hasa swimming pool -Luxury!
After a few days (it's rather expensive) we made the hour sail to Isle De Lobos just off Fuertaventura.  Good holding in sand, just off a natural lagoon.  We enjoyed swimming /snorkeling in the crystal clear water. 

Miles hugging a fender on a rope. The current can be quite strong. 
We love to be at anchor as its like being on your own little island(your boat).  Where as in a marina you always have the feeling of being a guest at somebodys establishment.
Isla de Lobos is a very popular tourist attraction for holidaymakers at Carilejo on mainland Fuertaventura and ferries visit many times a day.
After a couple of days we took the dinghy to the island and hopped on the ferry to Caralejo to stock up on fresh food. Whilst there we grabbed some internet at a cafe and visited a ferreteria to get some rope to replace the frayed roller furling jib line we had spotted the day before. Great price!
The next night aboard was a bit swelly. That was a sign to leave, but we didn't. The next night the wind got up and we saw a lightening storm pass by (unforcastes by the way)
After going to bed, the next thing I knew was Alison waking me up.
"I think all of the other yachts have gone on the mooring bouys"
"What! We must be the ones that have moved".
And we had. We had dragged anchor and were halfway to the mainland.
We had stopped drifting so we waited vigilently until daylight to lift the anchor.
The engine wouldn't start! I suspected that it would be the diesel leak on the fuel pump that was temporarily fixed in Portugal. It was!
Concidering that we had sailed all of the way from Portugal to Lanzarote without using the engine I think that the Yanmar mechanic did us a disservice as the repair hadn't lasted. I had asked him if he would come back the next day to do a permanent repair but he wasn't interested just saying 'next service'
After a bit of fiddling with the hose/connections the engine started.
The anchor was fouled rotten.  The chain was wrapped around and around it so that it couldn't function.

  We could have drifted onto the reef,  we were lucky.  We have an anchor alarm but stopped using it after a couple of nights because we thought the anchor was rock solid. We could see it well bedded into the sand.
Shaken and stirred we went back to Rubicon and safety.

On the way back we heard a toot. Where did that come from? Looking behind us a ferry had just left Caralejo. We got out of the way pronto. 

The Portuguese coast and on to Lanzarote 2014

We stayed a week to take advantage of the weekly rate.

The closed street market stalls eventually opened after a few days - all part of a book festival with classical music for ambience. This was a total contrast to the Spanish Fiestas we had previously witnessed.

We were ready to leave after the week was up... Next stop Pavoa do Varzim (1/2 day sail).

Leaving Viana, a French yacht cast off at the same time. He put his sails up in the river ( haven't got the confidence to do thet our selves) and soon disappeared over the horizon. We have room for much improvement it seams.

Povoa do Vazim

Pavoa was very interesting. A popular Portuguese holiday resort for families and the retired. The marina was very cheap but has the best showers yet! Negatives were the abundance of sea gulls and the fog horn (read air raid siren) which seemed to go off every night, all night as did the church bells.

We met up again with 'Shuma'. It was nice to meet up again and have a chat.

Douro Marina

We were finally able to fill up with diesel. Not wildly available on the Portuguese west coast. This was a very plush marina and Nuno was the best 'marinho' we have come across. He ecen told me off for going the wrong side of a buoy. If you visit Duoro Marina yourself be very careful as the water has very shallow patches at low tide and it's important to keep in the channel until you are level with the marina and fuel pontoon (take a sharp right).

Figuera de Foz

Up the river again and the current in the marina was deceiving. We and a few other boats were drifting while trying to maneuver - still we managed!

Here we met Nigel aboard 'Sea Brigand' together with his crew. Delivery skipper Steve ( from our neck of the woods) and crewman Paul. We had a very fluent get together one night - conversation and the booze ( eh Steve!)

Hitch hiking Dragon Fly

Nazare

Trying to steer between the breakwaters was like wrestling with a bull ( wish I'd took a video). This entrance was so rough!!!!

Once moored up we found a run down marina that had seen better days. The office was closed so I had to go and see the security guard. He was not best pleased to have another job to do (booking us in). However as with the Portuguese, after initial protests he was ok, thankfully.

Cascais

We arrived at Cascais at 12:30am and stayed on the reception pontoon until later that morning. We were made very welcome and enjoyed our stay.

We visited the Museum Condes De Castro and walked the gardens.

When we departed we were not charged for the first night on the visitors pontoon. BONUS !

Sines

A small town surrounded by industry. However from th town and marina you can't see it. Beautiful marina building but marina very windy.

Used the Asemetric Spinnaker, with success, on the way. 

On the beach

Lagos

We had to round Cape Vincent on route and boy did we get a shock!!! The wind (due to the Nortada) gusted up to 36 knots. With a tiny handkerchief of jib we made good headway but it was difficult heading into land. Phew!

Up a river again! Very busy!

Great English breakfast (1st in a year) and a pot of PG Tips, lovely!

Managed to source some decent tea. 

You can eat out like a Prince or buy great ingredients cheaply and eat in like a King. Steak is cheaper than chicken here. 

There was a lot of holiday makers tramping around the marina and numerous boat trips leaving and arriving every couple of hours.

Heading out was a bit of a nightmare - lots of boats and we had to wait a long time to fuel up as many local boats were piling up at the pumps.

Fuel pontoon Mele. 

Portimao

Just 6 Miles along the coast we anchored for the first time overnight. Loved it apart from the rave music blasting out all night. We stayed 10 days. FREE PARKING

We met up again with Nick and Jay aboard 'Bonventure'. Nick came aboard and helped us anchor as we were having difficulty as they were so many yachts there. Thank you Nick!

Nick and Jay threading a chain through a hosepipe for us. Cos we couldn't. 

Madeira 

We set out for Madeira, out of a calm bay to be hit with the strong wind of Cape Vincent and then the lumpy sea.

The shipping lane was busy and we had take avoiding action on a couple of occasions. 

After 8 hours we had had enough of the unpredictable beam sea (waves hitting the hull on the side) so we had to choose whether to continue, go back or change course. We changed course and headed south to Lanzarote. The ride was better with the sea behind and it was only 50 miles further. It was a new moon so we didn't expect much night time illumination but at the time of writing, we have a half moon and the stupid thing is out only a couple of hours at night but visible during the day. Pitts. We had difficulty sleeping because of the motion. This type of sea we had we called the 'washing machine' as it's rolly and pitchy at the same time. It makes doing anything very difficult.

At last after 4 1/2 days we sited land and anchored at the first opportunity-to get a good nights sleep. In the sheltered harbor of Arricife we were moving around like drunkards. The boat was in calm waters however we were not used to this. 

The next morning we moored in Puerto Calera Marina to set about shopping, fixing and cleaning.

"In and out the dusty bluebells"

We had read the warnings that the Portuguese waters have many lobster pots. They weren't wrong. They are numerous and difficult to spot, even in broad daylight. We must have altered course at least a dozen times that day, they just kept on coming.

Lots of pots

Entering The Viana channel (Rio Lima) the wind and tide was very strong. We moored onto the waiting pontoon on the outside of the marina entrance. Antonio from the marina welcomed us and informed us there was a finger pontoon available inside the marina. Alison looked at the current and wasn't keen. The current can run at about 7 knots and the entrance is quite narrow with a swing bridge. I wanted to enter the marina as it looked very sheltered so Alison said ok and let's have a go. Simples it was straightforward getting in and was very sheltered. Good prices, wifi available in most bars/ cafés.

Swing footbridge

Road/rail bridge designed by Eiffel

Flowers overhead in the charming streets