Gran Canaria, Las Palmas Birthday Bash

We stayed at Las Palmas Marina for 2 months. it is the cheapest marina in the Canaries and we paid extra for wifi which we could receive on the boat and was very good. Kept our son Gene happy.

Las Palmas is a great city for shopping. Many malls and high street brands. We particularly liked the second hand chandlery where we bought 15m of anchor chain, a diving knife and grease, delivered free of charge. Also the charity shops were good for a bargain. Carrefour and Hiperdino will deliver groceries to the boat, no problem and although we didn't visit them there are many cheap hairdressing salons. Dentists on almost every street so we took the opportunity to have Gene's braces removed as they had been on him for years and causing him discomfort.

We particularly enjoyed the gardens behind Saint Catalina Hotel and the nearby museums.

Gardens behind Saint Catalina Hotel

The 1st June was Alison's 50th Birthday and celebrated with Phillippe, Imelda (s/v Pilhaouers) and Diego. I (Miles) baked a fruit cake that went down very well and we all had a fantastic night with much merriment. Alison's presents were a new camera from me, a beach umbrella from Gene, 2 hand made courtesy flags from Imelda, a Spanish fan from Phillippe and from Diago a day out shopping in his car - machos gracias!!!!

Alison's new fan

Phillippe strumming, Miles working the fingerboard

Alison's Birthday cake

While at a major marina we had our Raymarine equipment repaired and a new cockpit speaker for the VHF. Our mains electric went "Pop" one day so we had Israel the electrician do some rewiring. We met a young man named Alex via Diago whom scaled our 60ft mast to fit a LED bulb in the tricolour. (Our todo list is getting shorter!)

One day walking back to the marina we bumped into Norbert (s/v Eos) whom we had crossed the Bay of Biscay with, many months ago. After seeing him we joined him for coffee and a catch up.

After 2 months it was time to leave.........

Onward to Gran Canaria

Gran Tarahal to Las Palmas. Our first sail onboard 'Artemis' with son Gene aboard.

On the 9/4/15 we cast off at 5.30pm because Gene had got the bus to Caralejo with a local skateboarding friend to buy a new deck each.
No problem as night sail was a plan that was quite favored.

It was a bit slow going at first as we barely made 3 knots for the first couple of hours. We decided to use the engine for swifter progress.  An hour later the engine was switched off and after another hour we had 2 reefs in the mainsail.
The wind was up and down for all of the trip. My unwritten rule after our slow start was to start the engine if our speed dropped below 3 knots to prevent the journey becoming an ordeal for new guy Gene.

Gene was pencilled in for a night watch as he is a bit of an nocturnal creature.
Didn't happen. He went to bed at midnight and slept until 8am - lucky sod! We let him as we were ok taking turns on watch.

As we neared Las Palmas Marina we went to start the engine - nothing. We were making good speed under sail and heading directly towards an anchored cargo ship. There was plenty of other traffic around as well as the odd oil/gas rig.
We tacked and headed back in the direction we had come from to give me time to have a look at the engine.

A play with battery combiner ruled out a flat start battery - still nothing. A visual check of the oil and water - all ok.
A twiddle with the start button - on - off - on - off - on - off - ignition and it started.
I reckon a contact problem or it could be the solenoid on the starter motor. To be investigated.
Anyway we turned back around and radio'd the marina.

As we approached the reception pontoon a yacht we just leaving. It was 'Pilhaouers' a French boat that was also at our last port and set off 6 hours before us.
We did have a very good journey 'Artemis' sailed so well. When we reefed the mainsail we tightened the reefs much more than we had done previously and the boat was much better controlled. Also the, ahem, iron sail played a part too.

Mooring is stern or bow to a pontoon with pick up lines ( no finger pontoons). We were a bit apprehensive about this as it is new to us, so we asked for assistance and 3 marinhos showed us the ropes as it were.

It turned out to be no problem at all. I did my best bit of reversing ever ( I was concentrating that hard) to get us stern to the pontoon.
Two lines were thrown ashore from the stern cleats and kept loose until the pick up line was pulled up from the sea bed and tightly tied to the bow. Then take up the slack on the stern ropes and it's sorted.  We had hung a fender off the back in preperation and is essential as the boat will move futher or closer to the pontoon as the tide goes in or out.

We had read and heard non too favourable reports of Las Palmas marina. Mostly unfounded as far as we an tell. We like it very much so far.

The reason for the lack of photos is that at Gran Tarahal I had a bit of a dunking - TWICE - in the same day. Lost my balance and fell off the pontoon and then off a neighbours boat into the water. Iphone ruined!
Suppose we will have to buy a decent camera now. Long overdue.
I think that my imbalance was due to blocked sinuses. We had heard the locals complaining about sinus problems due to the dry sandy air blowing over from west Africa.

Alison thought that the logo on this T-shirt was suitable for me. Yeah ok.

Our neighbours Philipe and Imelda 'Pilhaouers'

iPad pics

Worried about friends

Our pals John & Sabine (Chevaldy) had new standing rigging fitted and set off again to cross the Atlantic on Wednesday 17th December. We had the task of sending them weather forecasts every 3 days. They could send us their position via text from their satellite phone and we could text or better still, message for free via the Immarsat website. As well as their position, there were characters left to tell us how they were getting on. Our weather reports were rarely good news, sometimes 20-40kn winds (all over the place) and 4m seas. Sometimes they asked 'when will this sea state and wind abate ?' 'We have a problem with our rudder!'. Only once did our forecasts give steady weather for 3 days running. We used Weathertrack on our iPad. They finally arrived after 26 days, safely at Martinique, we were so relieved!

To say that everything went wrong for them is either accurate or an understatement.

You can read about the full adventure on their 'No holds barred' blog. chevaldy.de.tl/Chevaldy-English.htm

This has made us even more unsure about crossing the pond - until the other day. We were chatting to a French couple, Yves & Bettie, they informed us that a very good time to cross (smaller boats) is March/April as the seas are calmer. Also when Chevaldy arrived, they too were chatting to sailors in Martinique who informed them that it was better to cross March/April time. We had never heard this before, didn't even think it was possible. A revelation. There is hope for us yet! This year or next year?

Miles with John

Marina Lanzarote

We witnessed the start of the 2014 Atlantic Odyssey and followed the website to find out how they fared. All in all they had a pretty rough ride it seems. It's put us off going over the Atlantic this year as the weather and sea conditions are clearly not what we had imagined or been told what is usual. In fact everywhere we have been this year people have said it is a bad year weather wise. 

We were surprised that some yachts/cats were racing towards the start line with 3000 miles to go. I suppose it makes it fun for the competitive. 

John and Sabine aboard 'Chevaldy' heading off to cross the Atlantic on their own. We heard later that they had to motor back to Las Palma marina for repairs as their standing rigging snapped. 

A couple of weeks after our engine repairs another diesel leak started whilst testing the engine. Not entirely unexpected. With help from John and Diego we identified the problem to the injection pump outlets. We got the parts and fixed it ourselves and with some super conscientious fuel line bleeding by John the engine has never sounded better. 

Bread and butter pud made in the pressure cooker. Yum. 

Fuerteventura

It was time to move on from Lanzarote Marina (Arrecife). We had been there nearly 3 months, the friends we had made had moved on and we wanted to be somewhere less commercial.

At 10:15 am December 12th on a good forcast we left in the direction of Fuerteventura, destination Gran Tarajal. Our cruising guide states more of a Harbour with pontoons than a marina. Sounds ideal!

The wind was coming unusually from the south but we figured we could manage close hauled and we did until the current pushed us too far landward. A yacht about a mile in front of us, on a similar course tacked out to seaward and then turned south again to take advantage of the wind angle. It was just what we planned to do. The wind started to become variable near the land. This is what the other yacht must have experienced. We tacked out to sea but we were not making the turn of speed we had seen the other yacht get. The wind died, BLAST! On with the engine, but now we had further to go!

We arrived at Gran Tarajal Marina at 2:15am. What had started as a pleasant sail had developed into an arduous journey(not the first time). The reason being that picking a calmer day, the wind isn't as strong and without a powerful engine it's difficult to maintain a constant speed.

In the first few days we met Pete, Tim & Bee and Robert & Liam and were made to feel truly welcome. These guys are semi retired, on their yachts and think the place is a hidden gem. We are inclined to agree. 

Tim & Bees' Amel was in the boatyard so they came over for Christmas Dinner. We actually found a fresh Turkey in the Hipodino in the town.

Tim and Bee brought with them a huge bottle of vintage French vino. The photo is out of focus but so was everything else after drinking it. 

Mystery guest  Verner (on the right) He brought brandy. 

We entertained again on New Years Eve and on board we had a Dutch couple, 2 French couples, 3 english men and 1 German guy. The Dutch couple Albert & Renata aboard "Lycor" were fab!

When Liam aboard "Warisha" was diving, he noticed our anodes were almost gone and offered to fit new ones for us. When he had difficulty installing them Albert finished the job (it would have helped if I had bought the correct max prop anode first time !) Thanks so much guys!

Albert had fitted out Lycor himself and we were amazed when shown round it. The boat is 'for sale' unless he's already sold it. Lycor is a 'Reike' steel yacht which looks like a battering ram on the surface but once entered looks like the 'starship enterprise'.Wow!!!!

'Lycor'

The winter in the Canaries has been a bit chilly 20 degrees during the day, 12 degrees at night ( the coldest and windiest in 20 yrs so we've been informed). However late January the sun has arrived and we are having great weather - back to the outside jobs. We mounted the Outboard motor and the Barbeque onto the stern rail. Made covers for them along with back rests. Alison also cleaned the hulls waterline.

Our youngest son Gene is flying out to join us as he is in between courses at University and at a loose end. Amazingly we have managed to clear the V berth cabin for him (not a storage room any longer). 

V berth emptied. Now to somehow find a place for everything. 

Did it. 

Other news is that our oldest son Zak and girlfriend Beth have made us grandparents with the birth of Lettie May Lofthouse on the 19 December. We are delighted!

Arrecife

After a couple of nights at Rubicon we made for the new marina at Arrecife "Marina Lanzarote" to get the engine repaired. The same marina we had read about on Noonsite but couldn't find on the way down. Marina Lanzarote was a bit of a building site when we arrived. We didn't mind as it was cheaper than the others and fairly near the supermarkets, chandlers and everything else a capital should have, even IKEA.

Our youngest son Gene and my mum and dad flew out for a week to visit us. It was great to see them and spent our time with trips out and dining together every night. It was the first time they had seen "Artemis". I hope they were impressed.

Noteable neighbors are John & Sabine aboard "Chevaldy". Talkative and generous they make good pals. John showed me how to make bread and they are a mine of information for pennypinchers like ourselves.

Diego, Alison, John, Sabine

The marina has officially opened now and there was an all weekend celebration with live music and fireworks. 

Sabine, John, Tanya (Marina Reception) and friend, Alison. 

We have had a new fuel pump fitted and a full service. The mechanic was very good and made sure we had spare filters, impellers etc... for our planned Atlantic crossing after Christmas.

Puerto Calero

Puerto Calero is a very nice, upmarket marina with good fingerberth pontoons, boatyard, restaurants, cafes and designer shops. Great for a holiday but not for liveaboards like us as our shopping list of spare parts/consumables drew a blank. A Lacoste t-shirt?  No need. 

Shiney

Enter Jimmy Macintyre aboard 'Akkita' whom we met whilst having breakfast in a cafe. Jimmy is a very, very sociable Scotsman and offered to take us shopping in his car. The next day he rolled up in a very flash Mercedes convertible and together we visited supermarkets, chandlers and a couple of 'must' eateries. Thanks Jim.
We stayed a weekand then headed down the coast for some free parking at Papagayo, a local beauty spot.  

We stayed for one night but it was a bit rolly to stay any longer.  A part of the beach we were anchored off was popular with nudists. "You're not getting out the binoculars? "-"Yes l am" - wish I hadn't!!!!
Next stop Rubicon Marina,  even posher than the last one.  We had arranged to meet up with friends from our winter in France.  Frank and Dagmar from Germany were there and we were keen to catch up with them after so long.  

Frank and Dagmar 'High Flight'

Rubicon Marina even hasa swimming pool -Luxury!
After a few days (it's rather expensive) we made the hour sail to Isle De Lobos just off Fuertaventura.  Good holding in sand, just off a natural lagoon.  We enjoyed swimming /snorkeling in the crystal clear water. 

Miles hugging a fender on a rope. The current can be quite strong. 
We love to be at anchor as its like being on your own little island(your boat).  Where as in a marina you always have the feeling of being a guest at somebodys establishment.
Isla de Lobos is a very popular tourist attraction for holidaymakers at Carilejo on mainland Fuertaventura and ferries visit many times a day.
After a couple of days we took the dinghy to the island and hopped on the ferry to Caralejo to stock up on fresh food. Whilst there we grabbed some internet at a cafe and visited a ferreteria to get some rope to replace the frayed roller furling jib line we had spotted the day before. Great price!
The next night aboard was a bit swelly. That was a sign to leave, but we didn't. The next night the wind got up and we saw a lightening storm pass by (unforcastes by the way)
After going to bed, the next thing I knew was Alison waking me up.
"I think all of the other yachts have gone on the mooring bouys"
"What! We must be the ones that have moved".
And we had. We had dragged anchor and were halfway to the mainland.
We had stopped drifting so we waited vigilently until daylight to lift the anchor.
The engine wouldn't start! I suspected that it would be the diesel leak on the fuel pump that was temporarily fixed in Portugal. It was!
Concidering that we had sailed all of the way from Portugal to Lanzarote without using the engine I think that the Yanmar mechanic did us a disservice as the repair hadn't lasted. I had asked him if he would come back the next day to do a permanent repair but he wasn't interested just saying 'next service'
After a bit of fiddling with the hose/connections the engine started.
The anchor was fouled rotten.  The chain was wrapped around and around it so that it couldn't function.

  We could have drifted onto the reef,  we were lucky.  We have an anchor alarm but stopped using it after a couple of nights because we thought the anchor was rock solid. We could see it well bedded into the sand.
Shaken and stirred we went back to Rubicon and safety.

On the way back we heard a toot. Where did that come from? Looking behind us a ferry had just left Caralejo. We got out of the way pronto.